Culinary Adventures - Restaurante Malacatin

Wearing my bib at restaurante Malacatin.  .

            As we age, we learn to appreciate what makes a good restaurant.  The interesting thing about this is that each person develops their own criteria.

To me a great restaurant must have three things.  The first of these is, of course, great food.  This is a given and without great food we can all agree that you can’t have a great restaurant.  The second factor that makes a great restaurant to me is character.  Your experience there should be memorable.  Character can come in many forms whether it is the setting, the staff, the presentation, or the locale.  Any one or all of these things contribute.  If you leave a restaurant and a week later can’t remember what the place looked like, it wasn’t a memorable experience and that restaurant probably lacked character.  The final factor I use to define a great restaurant is a personal preference.  To me, a great restaurant has to have history.  Whether it’s a traditional dish, a historic setting, or a family history with a restaurant, to me this is the icing on the cake.  After all, bad restaurants don’t last long enough to develop a history, especially in a city like Madrid.

Exterior of Restaurante Malacatin.

With all of these criteria in mind, I headed to Restaurante Malacatín on Saturday September 24^th.  Restaurante Malacatín is a Madrid institution known for the city’s best Cocido Madrileño.  It is located in the gritty neighborhood of La Latina. La Latina is in an older section of Madrid known for its great restaurants and tapas bars.  It’s also the site of Madrid’s ancient Moorish quarter of Mayrit.  Malacatín though is not set among the trendy restaurants on Cava Baja.  Instead it lies just off the Plaza de Cascorro.  Located on Calle de Ruda, a small side street, Malacatín is surrounded by shuttered stores, flats, and Asian clothing stores.  The difference between Malacatín and all of these neighbors is that this tiny little restaurant has operated out of this spot for over 100 years.

Restaurante Malacatín was founded in 1895 by Julian Diaz Horcajo de Santiago.  Originally the restaurant was operated as a wine bar.  It was often frequented by locals including a guitar playing beggar who would sing, “tin tin tin Malacatín tin tin”.  The name stuck. 

Julian and his wife Maria had twelve children.  They passed on the restaurant to their youngest daughter Florita beginning a tradition that continues to this day.  Malacatín is now run granddaughter Dona Conchi and her son Jose Alberto. It was under the management of Florita that the restaurant expanded to add a kitchen and came to be known as Malacatín after the beggar’s song.  It was also around this time that they started specializing in the most sacred of Madrid’s culinary traditions, Cocido Madrileño.

The origins of Cocido are believed to go all the way back to the Middle Ages and a Jewish dish called, adafina.  Adafina was a slow cooked meal that catered to the Jewish Shabbat or Sabbath.  At the time of the Inquisition in Spain during the 15^th and 16^th centuries, Adafina was changed greatly and pork was added to the dish producing a more recognizable version of Cocido.  As time passed and the city of Madrid grew in the 18^th and 19^th centuries, the dish gained popularity for its simple ingredients, heartiness, and fairly low cost to produce.  Today this dish, above all others, has come to represent true Madrid cuisine.

Cocido Madrileno

The first thing you need to know about Cocido Madrileño is that although the dish is prepared in one big pot, it is served as three courses.  The first of these is the soup course.  For this, the broth that everything is cooked in is separated and then small noodles are added.  In addition to the soup, you are also served a small platter of pickled gherkins, pearl onions, and guindillas.  Guindillas are small picked hot peppers.  They also serve a plate of whole raw onions alongside the soup. 

The second course of Cocido is the vegetable course.  The stars of this course are the chick peas.  These are slow cooked and take on the saltiness of all the various meats.  They also give the soup its heartiness.  In addition to the chick peas, there is cabbage, and potatoes.  It is also with this course that the pork belly appears.  This is the one part of the dish that simply didn’t agree with me.  Pork belly is the layer of fat between the skin and the meat of the pig.  Although it adds a great deal of richness and flavor to the dish, the texture was simply something I couldn’t stomach.

The final course of Cocido Madrileño is the meat course.  This is by far the richest and most filling course.  It’s like salty meat heaven.  The meat course consists of chicken, pork ham bone, roast beef, pork knuckle, fresh chorizo, and morcilla (blood sausage).  The result of all these bended flavors is magical.  It is also incredibly filling. 

Interior of Restaurante Malacatin.

After our meal we paid our bill we were met by one of the restaurant’s owners.  Because the place is so tiny (only ten tables) he shakes everyone’s hand and asks them what they thought of their meal.  He also thanks you for coming to Malacatín.  Although much has changed in the restaurant’s 116 years of operation, the hospitality hasn’t.  If you are looking for an authentic culinary experience in Madrid, Malacatín can’t be beat.  Just make sure to book ahead.

Dreaming of Wales

Betws-y-Coed and Northern Wales

            After three days in Leeds in which Kelly had to work, our family was very excited to head to Wales and truly enjoy our vacation.  The trip itself took us from Leeds to Manchester and then on into Wales.  It is very easy to tell once you’ve crossed the Welsh border as immediately all the signs are in Welsh.  This is a byproduct of the Welsh Nationalist movement.  Although they were never militant in the way that the IRA has been in Northern Ireland, the Welsh are very proud of their heritage and native culture.  This culture along with the language differentiates them from their English neighbors, and perhaps no region is more adamantly Welsh as those in the mountainous north.

            In addition to their national pride, the Welsh are also known the world around for their hospitality.  They are very welcoming people.  They never fail to greet you, and once they find out that you are from somewhere other than the U.K., they are more than happy to start up a conversation, recommending everything from sites and museums, even which train will get you to your desired location the fastest.  As a very good friend of mine told me when she found out we were going to Wales, “I hope you find the true Welsh experience you are looking for.”  Little did she know that we wouldn’t even arrive in Betws-y-Coed, before we were introduced to Welsh hospitality.

            After traveling along the northern coast and enjoying beautiful views of the Irish Sea, we boarded our third and final train of the day to head south into the mountains.  Taking our seats, we noticed a kind looking older gentleman with his brolly (umbrella) and newspaper sitting just across from us in the back of the rail car.  Within five minutes of the train leaving the station, he had introduced himself as Arthur.  Over the next thirty minutes or so, Arthur gave us the history of every small town we passed, advice on sites to see, and his only copy of the train tables.  It was then, before we even reached our destination, that we realized what a magical place this would be.

            After a long day of travel (nearly four hours by train) we arrived at the small Victorian village of Betws-y-Coed.  Betws-y-Coed lies in the Snowdonia region of Northern Wales, which is named for the U.K.’s highest peak, Mount Snowdon.  The village itself became popular with tourists only after the rail line was finished in 1868.  After that, Betws-y-Coed became a destination for Victorian tourists looking for an escape into the wild.  Today, nearly 150 years later, not much has changed.  The town is a great starting point for the numerous walks, hikes, and bike trails in the region.  On one side of the town is the Gwydyr National Forest and a short bus ride away are some of the most spectacular mountains in the U.K. 

The church Hill House B&B

            Our accommodation in Betws-y-Coed was at a charming little bed and breakfast called the Church Hill House.  Our room, which was classified as a family room, featured a double bed and bunk beds for the boys.  Included in our room rate was a full Welsh breakfast every morning.  For those of you unfamiliar, this means a fried egg, hash browns, a rasher of bacon, beans, a baked tomato, sautéed mushrooms, sausage and black pudding.  Most days I complimented this feast with a small pot of tea.  Needless to say, lunches were usually pretty light during our stay.

            Although we enjoyed a number of activities and shopping during our time in Betws-y-Coed, several activities stand out above the others.  These are the Snowdon Mountain Railway and Llanberis, my hike with Douglas to the mountain lake, and our dinner at a sixteenth century Welsh Inn. 

The boys in front of our rail car.

Snowdon Mountain Railway Station

           On our first full day in Wales, we set out for the Snowdon Mountain Railway.  The railway has been in operation since 1896.  It sets off from the town of Llanberis, traveling 4.7 miles to within sight of the summit of Mount Snowdon.  That is, keeping in mind, that the weather in good enough to actually see at the summit.  Unfortunately for our family, the weather that day was as typically Welsh as the hospitality.  We are able to glimpse breathtaking views of the other mountains and the rich valleys for about 2/3 of our trip up the mountain.  The remaining 1/3 of the trip was marked by a steady rain, mist, and thick clouds.  In fact the weather was so poor that our time at the actual summit was less than five minutes.  We climbed the final thirty yards or so, snapped a very misty picture and headed back to the safety of our train car.  Even with the poor weather though, the experience was once in a lifetime.

View from the train about halfway up Mount Snowdon

At the summit of Mount Snowdon

Also while we were in Llanberis, we had a much more pleasant experience by simply enjoying the great outdoors.  Prior to our trip on the Snowdon Mountain Railway, my wife spotted a sign pointing towards a waterfall.  With time to kill, we hiked about a half an hour to reach it.  Although the kids complained at the beginning, the charm of the Welsh countryside and its unpredictable weather brightened their moods.  In only that small bit of time we experienced sun, clouds, and rain, twice.  Our efforts though were rewarded with beautiful views of the town, the waterfall, and a picturesque stone fence bordered field complete with a horse and several sheep.  Sheep in Wales are like mosquitoes in the Amazon.  They are everywhere.  It was great though to see Benjamin’s face as he came face to face with “Mr. Sheep”.  So much so that we didn’t have the heart to tell him that it was actually “Mrs. Sheep”.

Benji and Mr Sheep.

On our second full day in Wales, we decided to stay in Betws-y-Coed, relax and do some shopping.  After this was finished and we still had a couple of hours until dinner, Douglas and I decided to take one of the hikes that began around the corner from our B&B.  The hike was difficult but the sign promised a mountain lake, which piqued our interest.  After nearly 40 minutes of steep climbing, Douglas and I emerged at the top of the ridge with views of the mountains and a fairly large lake stretching out in front of us.  We hiked the entire way around the lake, before heading back down to meet up with Kelly and Benjamin.  I’ll always remember the look on Douglas’ face as we came back onto the road by the beginning of the hike.  He was so proud of himself for completing a “difficult” hike.  Moments like this remind me that it’s the little things in life that really count.

Douglas after finishing our hike.

            After working up a big appetite with our hike, we all got ready and headed to the Ty Gwyn Hotel and Restaurant for dinner.  The Ty Gwyn dates to 1636 and features beautiful low wood beamed ceilings throughout.  For many years it operated as a coaching inn.  For the past 28 years it has been operated by the same family with a patriarch also serving as the restaurant’s chef.  They pride themselves on traditional Welsh cooking with a focus on local produce, meats, etc…  Like most Welsh cooking, the Ty Gwyn relies heavily on lamb, potatoes, cheeses, and leeks.  The meal I enjoyed that evening was something I’d never tried before, lamb Wellington.  It featured lamb loin baked in light pastry dough.  It was wonderful, especially when accompanied by a good pint of Welsh bitter. 

The Ty Gywn

Lamb Wellington

         

          Overall, our experience in Wales gave us exactly what we were looking for.  It was a simple, friendly, beautiful, and magical escape from our everyday lives in Madrid.  It’s the type of place that calls to you once you return home.  To steal from the same friend who I mentioned at the beginning of this piece, once you visit Wales you will forever suffer from “hiraeth”.  It is a word that is unique to the Welsh language.  It means, “longing for Wales”.     
 

Kelly and I during our hike to the waterfall.

The Leeds-Liverpool Canal and the Royal Armouries

Douglas and Benjamin in front of the Royal Armouries

One of the best opportunities afforded by living in Europe for two years is the chance to travel.  One such opportunity presented itself this past week as Kelly was asked to travel to Leeds, West Yorkshire, U.K.  Because the boys had not yet started school, we decided to make it a family trip, with a stopover in Northern Wales as well.  Although the title of the blog may be “2 years in Madrid”, these next few entries would be more aptly titled, “6 Days in the U.K.”.

            The city of Leeds, England is located in north central England.  Unlike a lot of the old towns in England, Leeds does not have a great deal of older architecture, museums, monuments, etc…  Although it’s a college town, it looks a great deal more like a business or manufacturing center.  With a population of 788,000, Leeds has risen to become the economic center of West Yorkshire if not Northern, England.  Along with this type of growth comes many new buildings and a modern skyline.  For those of us who end up in the region as tourists (especially American tourists) this does not mesh well with our image of the quant English town.  Despite its modernity, Leeds is not without its charms. 

            One of these charms I discovered on a run near the Leeds riverfront.  Running from just below the Leeds Rail Station is the beginning of the Leeds to Liverpool Canal.  The Leeds-Liverpool Canal greatly improved the economy of Yorkshire as it linked one of the regions greatest business centers with the port of Liverpool.  Begun in 1770, the canal took nearly 40 years to complete.  The primary cargo on the canal in those early years was coal and limestone.  It is made up of 91 locks and runs 127 miles.  Unlike many other canals, the Leeds-Liverpool canal was constructed with wide locks that allowed it to better compete with the railway. 

A canal boat docked at the Leeds riverfront.

            While today the canal is used primarily for leisure boating, it was recognized as a shipping resource into the 1970’s.  As late as 1972, coal was still being shipped to the power station at Wiggan via canal.  In additional to the leisure boats that traverse the canal today, the old towpath running alongside the canal has become a favorite of walkers, runners, and those on bicycle.  The current towpath runs the entire way from Granary Warf in Leeds where the canal empties into the River Aire, to Liverpool.  The canal provides a great resource for those in Northern England as the entire distance can be covered by foot or by boat using the lock system that is still operational.

Display Case at the Royal Armouries Musuem

            The other top notch attraction the boys and I discovered in Leeds was the Royal Armouries Musuem.  Opened in 1996, the Royal Armouries sits on the bank of the River Aire.  It is a modern building complete with three floors of exhibits, a central tower, gift shop, theaters, and an outside interpretation area.  At the time of its construction, the museum was originally designed as an overflow site for the extensive collection of the Tower of London.  The Armouries is a national museum operated by the Department of Culture, Media, and Sport.  Like all national museums, there is no general admission charge.  In addition to the main collection, the museum also hosts special exhibits and interpretations that charge a minimal amount.

            Once inside, the Armouries there are three floors of exhibits.  They are organized into the Hunting Gallery, Oriental Gallery, Self Defense Gallery, Tournament Gallery, War Gallery, and the Hall of Steel and Street.  The majority of these galleries are filled with polished examples of days gone by.  Suits of armor are displayed alongside a multitude of weapons.  The exhibits are so well done and displayed that one almost forgets exactly what it is that these shiny works of art were used for in the first place.

Hall just outside the Oriental Gallery

            In addition to the armor, there are great exhibits on the evolution of hunting and big game hunting, modern weaponry, law enforcement and the weapons Asia.  One of the exhibits that really caught my kid’s attention was a short video showing the process by which a Samurai sword is made.  Immediately behind the video was a beautiful display case showing many different Samurai swords as well as swords in different states of assembly.  If there is one thing you are sure to notice about the Royal Armouries, it is that they are very well funded and that they work very hard to make the museum and its interpretation one of the finest in the U.K..

            Along with the Samurai Swords, our other favorite artifact was the parade armor helmet fashioned for England’s King Henry VIII.  The helmet was given to the King by Emperor Maximilian I. 

Parade Helmet that belonged to King Henry VIII

            Outside of the permanent collection, the museum also has some wonderful hands-on areas that were very engaging for the kids.  Among these were the crossbow range and the police dog demonstration.  The police dog demonstration was put on by the Leeds Police Department and featured two different dogs that were raised and trained for police work.  The demonstration took place in the Tiltyard which is an outdoor area attached to the museum.  Admission for this “extra” was six pounds for all of us and it was definitely worth it. 

Police Dog Demonstration

            In addition to the various demonstrations, the Tiltyard is also home to jousting contests during the summer.  Two of the larger of these are held during the weekend of Easter and at the end of the summer.  The end of summer jousting contest attracts competitors from all over the world who ride for the chance to bring home the H.M. Queen’s Golden Jubilee trophy.

            While I wouldn’t describe Leeds as a destination vacation spot, there are some things to recommend it.  The river walk, towpath, and city hall were very nice, and the Royal Armoury is probably the most well presented and interpreted museum I’ve visited in three trips to the U.K.