In addition to seeing the sites while I’m living in Madrid, I also hope to soak up Spanish culture through my stomach. I guess you could call it learning through digestion. I’ve decided to write a series of blog entries on the Madrid food scene. These will range from street food to five star restaurants and everything in between. As an American I’m sure some of these “adventures” will push me far beyond my comfort zone, but that’s the point. If you are really trying to understand a foreign culture, you don’t eat at McDonald’s and stick to the areas where they only speak English.
Unlike many other foreign capitals, Madrid has not developed a reputation for its own unique style of cuisine. Instead, Madrid is a melting pot of all the different regions that make up the country we know as Spain today. These regional cuisines are as vastly different as the regions in which they come from. In Mediterranean towns like Valencia paella and fresh seafood are staples, Andalusia features fried fish and Iberian ham, and in Castilla La Mancha, central Spain, they are experts at roast lamb, rabbit, and Manchego Cheese.
The beauty of this diversity is that all of these cuisines are reflected in the capital. Walking down one of the city’s “eat streets” you choose from any one of these culinary traditions. For my first foray into Spain’s underrated cuisine, I chose to indulge in bacalao (salt cod) at Casa Labra.
Casa Labra is a small old style bar and restaurant located just off of Spain’s beating heart, Plaza de la Puerta del Sol. Sol is the closest Madrid comes to a Times Square. It is the location of the annual New Year’s Eve celebrations, and is always awash in people. Surrounding the plaza are a number of pedestrian only streets lined with shops of all sorts. It’s a great shopping area and a frequent meeting spot for tourists and locals alike. Located on one of these pedestrian streets is Casa Labra.
In addition to being known locally as one of the best spots for bacalao, Casa Labra also holds an important place in the history of the city. It was at Casa Labra on May 2, 1879 that the Partido Socialista Obrero Español (Social Democratic Political Party) was formed. Ideaologically the party emphasized labor reform and representation of the working class. Like many of the labor movements of the nineteenth century the Spanish Socialists were strongly influenced by the writings of Karl Marx.
Initially led by Spanish labor leader Pablo Iglesias, the movement remained relatively small through the end of the nineteenth century although they did participate in strikes from 1899-1902. As the new century dawned, the party gained power until the Spanish Civil War of 1936-1939. After the war the party fractured and was eventually banned by Dictator Francisco Franco. Throughout Franco’s reign, the party members remained either exiled or persecuted. This changed though in 1974 when the party’s emphasis shifted from the exiles to the younger generation that had not fought the Civil War.
In 1979, after Franco’s death, the party was legalized and reformed. That same year the party renounced their Marxist approach becoming a Social-Democratic party. Their politics also moved away from the far left, to the center, supporting a free-market economy. In 2004 and 2008 the Spanish Social Democratic Party won the majority of seats in the general election and named José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero Spanish Prime Minister. Today the Spanish Social Democratic Party remains in power.
Despite its rich political history, Casa Labra remains a popular and inviting destination in Madrid. Founded in 1860, much of the interior remains unchanged. It features dark paneled woodwork, a small bar, and shelves or counters lining the walls where patrons can set down their small plates chock full of fried bacalao and bacalao croquets. On weekdays lines form early at lunchtime, from approximately 1pm to 3pm.
Walking up to the front of the pub, you join the queue on the right side of the entrance. Many days this line snakes its way through the outdoor tables that spill outside into the Calle Tetuàn where the bar is located. When the time comes for you to order, you find yourself in front of a cash register and two enormous platters. One of these is piled high with fried cod fillets and the other with cod croquets. The Tajada de Bacalao or cod fillets are 1.25 euros each and the Croquetas de Bacalao are .80 euros each. With a combination of the two, you can easily make a meal for about 6 to 8 euros.
After you pay for your food, you are handed a small plate, or two, with your order and you head over to the bar. The bar, which sits adjacent to the cash register, features a full selection of drinks, soft drinks, and alcohol. The most popular order though is a caña of beer. A caña is a small glass of only six ounces or so. Once you have your beer and your fish, you look for a counter to set your plates down and dig in.
Croquetas de Bacalao
Trying the croquetas first, they literally melt in your mouth. Spanish croquets, like much Spanish cuisine, are delightfully simple yet cooked to perfection. The croquetas are made of olive oil, butter, flour, milk, salt, eggs, bread crumbs, and whatever the featured ingredient is. At Casa Labra the croquetas feature salt cod (bacalao). Bacalao is a cod fillet that has been packed in salt and dehydrated to preserve it. When you are ready to cook with it, the fish must be soaked in water for a minimum of 24 hours to rehydrate it. Casa Labra’s croquets are known throughout the city and for good reason.
Tajadas de Bacalao
In addition to the croquets, I ordered several pieces of Tajada de Bacalao or fried salt cod. These came cooked to a perfect golden brown, with an amazing salty fishy richness. Think Long John Silver fish fillets only ten times more flavorful.
Finishing my meal, I understood why generations of Madrileños continue to bring their children and grandchildren to Casa Labra. Personally, their fish could be the best I’ve ever eaten. It is a definite must stop if you travel to Madrid.
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