Rome – My Three Favorites

 Now  that I’ve had nearly two weeks since our return from Rome, I’ve had some time to reflect on our trip and about how to chronicle this experience in my blog.  While this may seem on the surface pretty simple, Rome is one of those cities that offer endless possibilities, memories, and experiences.  During our eight days in the Italian Capital, we were able to see many of the big name attractions.  We visited Capitoline Hill, the Capitoline Museum, the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel, the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, Piazza Del Fiore, Trastevere, and too many churches to count.  With this in mind, you can see why it has taken awhile to process the trip and decide exactly what it is that I planned to share.  What I’ve decided to do is pick the three site that moved me, talk about my experience there, and share a little of the history behind the site.

Galleria Borghese

            Little did I know when I booked the tickets to Galleria Borghese that the experience I would share with my oldest son, on our first day in Rome, would be one of my most memorable of the trip.  Walking about a half an hour from our apartment on Via Nazionale, we arrived to pick up our tickets at Galleria Borghese just before our scheduled tour time.  The villa and grounds in which the collection resides were named after Cardinal Scipione Borghese.  Borghese was the nephew of Pope Paul V and an avid art collector.  He was a patron of Bernini (one of Italy’s greatest sculptors) and an early admirer and patron of Caravaggio.

            Today the Galleria Borghese houses an extensive collection within its twenty rooms including works by Caravaggio, Bernini, Titian, Raphael, Rubens and Canova.  The two pieces that I found most interesting were a painting titled Madonna and Child with St. Anne by Caravaggio and Canova’s masterful sculpture, Venus Victrix.

Caravaggio's Madonna and Child with St. Anne

            The Caravaggio work is a standout piece, but also has quite a fascinating back story.  Using his position and that of his uncle as Pope, Cardinal Borghese commissioned Caravaggio to paint a work that would hang in St. Peter’s Basilica.  Although the commissioned work turned out to be quite impressive, the College of Cardinals turned down the painting due to its unconventional nature and earthly realism.  With nowhere else for it to go, Borghese conveniently found a place for the controversial work in his own private collection.  Some scholars today even go as far as to say that private ownership was Borghese’s intent all along.  Nothing like commissioning a masterpiece and having the Vatican pick up the tab.

            Among many other standout works in the museum is a sculpture by Italian artist, Canova.  Although commissioned by the Borghese family, the work was completed long after the death of the Villa’s founder.  The sculpture was produced between 1805-1808 and features Pauline Bonaparte, the wife of Camillo Borghese.  In addition to marrying into the Borghese family, Pauline was also related to another quite famous historical figure.  She was the sister of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Canova's Masterpiece

            Both today and at the time, it remains a mystery as to whether Napoleon’s sister actually posed nude for the sculptor.  While art historians point out that the figure in the sculpture is a classic Roman form, Pauline Bonaparte was known to hint that the work was true to form.  When she was asked how she could possibly pose in such a state, she responded that the artist kept a small stove in the room so that she wouldn’t get too cold.  Whether her comments were made stir a little bit of controversy or purely in truth we will never know.

            The second of my favorite attractions in Rome is a fountain that has stolen the spotlight in many a Hollywood movie, all the while supporting and helping to feed Rome’s poor and homeless.  The Trevi Fountain is one of those sites that you couldn’t visit Rome without seeing.  Much like the Eiffel Tower, Big Ben, or the Colosseum, the fountain has grown to become a symbol of the city.

Rome's Trevi Fountain

            Work began on the Trevi Fountain in 1732 after Rome born architect, Nicola Salvi, was awarded the commission.  Interestingly enough, Salvi’s plan was actually the first runner up in the contest to design the fountain commissioned by Pope Clement XII.  The winner of the contest was Florentine Alessandro Galilei.  Unfortunately for the Florentine architect, old prejudices against outsiders cost him his chance and his commission.  In all it would take thirty years to complete costing the fountain’s architect and Pope Clement XII the opportunity to see it in its final form.  Both men were long dead by 1762.

            While always a favorite of visitors to the city, the Trevi Fountain has gained increased notoriety as it has become the backdrop to many popular movies including Fellini’s La Dolce Vita and the 1953 classic American film, Roman Holiday starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.  

            Just a year after Roman Holiday, another picture was released titled Three Coins in the Fountain.  This film and its Academy Award winning song helped to truly cement the custom of throwing a coin into the fountain.  Legend holds that if you throw a coin into the fountain before leaving, then someday you will return to Rome.  Like most tourists, we threw our coins into the waters of Trevi.  Unlike most visitors to the city, we did so on all three occasions we found ourselves in the small square.

 One little side note about the money that ends up in the fountain.  It is believed that every day nearly 3,000 Euros ($4000) in change is tossed into the Trevi Fountain.  This money is collected and used to subsidize a supermarket for the poor where those less fortunate can go to receive free food and groceries.

The final of my three sites that I would like mention is the Sistine Chapel.  Although in size it pales in comparison to its nearby neighbor St Peter’s, the much smaller Capella Sistina is quite possibly the most famous church in the world.

Being inside the Sistine Chapel is like falling into a painting that comes to life all around you.  With the exception of the floor, nearly every square inch of the place has been painted. The most famous of these paintings are those done by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1541.  During two distinct stints in the chapel Michelangelo produced what many consider his greatest legacy for the art world.  Michelangelo’s first contribution to the Sistine chapel was from 1508-1512 as he spent four years painting the ceiling.  His work here depicts three major themes across nearly 12,000 square feet.  The themes portrayed by Michelangelo are God’s Creation of the World, God’s Relationship with Mankind, and Mankind’s Fall from God’s Grace.

The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel

Following his work on the ceiling, Michelangelo grew disheartened with the church.  He felt that his worked only served to satisfy Pope Julius II’s need for grandeur, not to glorify God.  Despite this or perhaps because he was commissioned by a new Pope, Paul III, Michelangelo agreed to begin work again on the Chapel in 1535.  This time he would spend from 1537-1541 creating The Last Judgment on the altar wall of the chapel.  In this case, Michelangelo’s work tells the story of the second coming of Christ and the final judgment of mankind.  Even after completing the Last Judgment at age 67, Michelangelo remained active.  In 1547 he was named the head architect in the building of St. Peter’s Basilica.  It was in this capacity that he designed the cathedral’s dome which was completed in 1590, twenty-six years after his death.

The Last Judgment

One final interesting fact about the Sistine Chapel is that it is the site of the Papal Conclave, the process by which the new Pope is chosen.  During the Conclave a chimney is installed in the roof of the Chapel.  When a new Pope is chosen, white smoke emerges from the chimney.  When a vote is inconclusive, black smoke is released by the chimney.  Voting has taken place in the Sistine Chapel since 1455.

While all the experiences you’ve just read about made Rome an amazing place to visit, it wouldn’t have been the same if I didn’t have the opportunity to see all these sites and more with such great company.  As always my wife and the boys were my companions in this adventure, but in this instance we were also joined by my parents.  One of the hardest parts about moving to Europe has been time away from family.  I know it took a lot to pry my parents away from their comfort zone (and the United States), but in the end I think they really enjoyed the trip.  I know we enjoyed having them with us to share the holidays.     

My Parents with Benjamin and Douglas at the base of the Spanish Steps.

Remus, Romulus and the Founding of Rome

Statue of Remus and Romulus with the She Wolf (Capitoline Museum)

Prior to visiting Rome, I may have heard the names Remus and Romulus but I honestly can’t recall if I ever heard the story of Rome’s founding.  After my visit and seeing the importance the twins have to the city’s history, I couldn’t help but do a little research to see what this foundation myth is all about. 

                My interest was sparked by the fairly common image of the two young twins being suckled by a she wolf.  This somewhat disturbing image has been adopted whether officially or unofficially by the city and appears on t-shirts, jackets, in sculpture, and works of art.  While it’s kind of a bizarre image to put forth representing your city, the story behind the image proves fascinating. 

                The earliest known history of the twins in believed to be from the writings of Diocles of Preparethus, a Greek historian that lived during the 3^rd and 4^th century BCE.  Later building on his work, famous historians Livy and Plutarch would add their two cents to Rome’s foundation myth.  Regardless of the historian, they all seem to agree on the beginning of the story of Remus and Romulus.

                According to the myth, Remus and Romulus were born to a Vestal Virgin named Rhea Silvia.  Silvia was not a Vestal Virgin by choice.  Instead she was forced into the arrangement by her uncle, Amulius.  Amulius used the power he wielded as treasurer of the kingdom of Alba Longa to overthrow his brother and Rhea’s father, Numitor.  After triumphing over his brother, Amulius’ concerns over any potential nephews lead to Rhea’s life as a Vestal Virgin.  Here’s where things get a little bazaar.  After she becomes a Vestal Virgin, Rhea Silvia is seduced by either the god Mars or in other versions, Hercules.  After finding out about his niece’s pregnancy, Amulius is furious and orders one of his servants to dispose of the twin boys.

                If the boys were to get the short end of the stick, things proved much worse for their mother.  In the kingdom of Alba Longa, Vestal Virgins were a sacred, important part of the kingdom’s religion.  Vestal Virgins were freed from obligations to marry and bare children.  They were considered priestesses of Vesta, goddess of the hearth.  By giving up their rights to bare children, etc… the Vestals were also forced to maintain a vow of chastity for thirty years.  Interestingly, after their service, they were permitted to marry and have children.  In later years, the Vestal Virgins were charged with maintaining a fire at the Temple of Vesta in Rome.  They were also responsible for tasks like drawing sacred water from the well and even safeguarding wills of important people.  In a sense they were the sacred housekeepers of the ancient world.

                The less glamorous side of being a Vestal Virgin was the harsh punishment they were subject to if they broke their vows.  According to law, it was illegal to spill the blood of a Vestal Virgin, even if they broke their vows.  To get around this, any Vestal Virgin caught breaking her vow was to be buried alive.  It appears that this was the fate that met Rhea Silvia when she was found pregnant.

                In regards to the twins, Amulius refused to bloody his own hands, so he charged one of his servants with killing the boys.  Unable to commit the crime, the servant placed the boys in a basket next to the River Tiber.  The river flooded and the boys were pushed downstream where they caught in the roots of a fig tree at the base of Palatine Hill.  Palatine Hill would eventually become the center of the ancient city.  Although the boys survived the river, they were still left to the elements and a certain death.  While in their basket alongside the river, the boys were discovered by a she wolf.  Instead of eating the easy meal, the wolf decided to take them as her own, allowing the boys to suckle and saving their lives.  This is the image that has become symbolic of the city today.

Painting by Ruebens of Remus and Romulus being found by the shepherd.  Looking on are Rhea and the god Mars/Hercules.

                Later, the boys were discovered by a shepherd, Faustulus, and his wife Acca Laurentia.  The couple raised the boys as they were their own children.  As the years passed, the boys became shepherds in their own right, coming into conflict with the shepherds of their uncle Amulius.  When the boys were brought in front of the King, their true identity was recognized and a battle was waged between the King and the twins.  Romulus and Remus triumphed over their uncle and were offered the crown of Alba Longa.  Instead of taking the crown, the twins instead decided to strike off on their own.  In Alba Longa they reinstated their grandfather Numitor before going off in search of a spot to found their own city. 

                In a twist of fate, their search brought them to within sight of where the she wolf found them many years earlier.  Near the river are two hills, Palatine Hill and Aventine Hill.  Although they both liked the spot, the boys got into an argument over where to build the city with each choosing a hill.  To settle the dispute, Remus climbed to the top of Aventine Hill and Romulus to the top of Palatine Hill.  After asking for a sign from the gods, Remus saw six eagles (or vultures depending on the story) and Romulus saw twelve.  Claiming that his site has been chosen by the gods, Romulus began to construct his city on Palatine Hill.  The sources seem to agree that the year was 753 BCE.

Ancient Roman Ruins near Palatine Hill



                Despite the signs from the gods to the contrary, Remus refused to acknowledge Palatine Hill and becomes a thorn in his brother’s side.  As his brother constructs a wall/ditch around the hill, Remus criticizes the work and even went as far as to obstruct Romulus’ construction.  In a final act of disrespect towards his brother’s choice of Palatine Hill, Remus made a mockery of the wall/ditch by jumping it.  This is the final straw for Romulus and his followers, and they killed Remus.  In one account he is killed by his brother, and in another one of the workers on the wall/ditch hits him over the head with a spade.

                Under Romulus rule the city grows and prospers eventually incorporating several other local kingdoms including Alba Longa.  It is also under Romulus that the Roman system of senatorial rule materializes.  Ironically many believe that a conflict with the Senate lead to Romulus’ downfall.  Regardless of what happened later in his rule, the story of Remus and Romulus is a fascinating foundation myth that continues to define the city 2700 years later. 

               

My Year in Running 2011

At the Race Expo for the Amsterdam Marathon

If there is one thing about 2011 that I can be certain about, it’s that it hasn’t been business as usual.  We all have years in our lives that are relatively stable and those that jerk the rug out from underneath us.  For me, 2011 was the later.  After five years of the same job for both Kelly and I, and no new additions to the family (except for Buddy), we decided to shake things up with a move to Madrid in March.  While this “adventure” has brought its share of joy to our family, it has not been without its challenges.  Despite these challenges and instability, the one thing that has remained a constant for me in 2011 is running.  Some people have church, others rely on the online community, or one of a million legal or illegal substances.  What gets me through the day and helps me to deal with the day to day stresses of kids, family, life etc… is running.

            One thing I’ve always done since I began running in the summer of 2000 is to keep a running log.  In the past few years I’ve come to enjoy spending the first day of the year looking back on what I’ve accomplished the past year.  I’m not one to post daily runs and I don’t race that often, so I rarely use Facebook to talk about running.  This year though I’ve decided to share this reflection with those reading my blog.  I know it’s a little self-serving, but I would encourage all of my running friends to give it a try.  Reflecting on your accomplishments is a great way to get motivated for the coming year and an opportunity to learn from the past year. 

By the numbers

Despite all the instability this year, 2011 was a great year for me running wise.  I ran longer, in more places, and faster than I ever have.  According to the numbers, I ran a grand total of 2712 miles in 2011.  That is an improvement of about 140 miles over 2010.  Of course, many of these extra miles were possible because I’ve been living in Spain since March.  My highest month this year was July when I totaled 281 miles, while my lowest month was April when I ran the Boston Marathon and leapfrogged between the U.S. and Spain.  Overall I had 19 weeks where I ran between 50-59 miles, 15 weeks where I was between 60-69 miles, and two weeks at 70 or above.  These two weeks were also my highest two ever with the week of December 4^th at 71miles my highest all time.

The races

Although I’ve never been a weekend warrior racing a 5K every week, I do like to race 5 to 10 times a year.  This year though was a little out of the ordinary.  With everything going on, I raced only three times in 2011.  The first of these was arguably the most famous road race in the world, the Boston Marathon.  I won’t go into detail here as I already wrote a blog about my experience, but it was a good solid race for me with a time of 3:15:47 (7:28 per mile).  More importantly it was an opportunity to check something off my life list.  Getting to the finish line on Boylston Street is no easy task, although some would argue that it’s much easier than getting to the starting line.  Although it wasn’t my fastest race, it was fun to be part of the spectacle in 2011.

My race bib for the Boston Marathon

My second race of 2011 turned out to be much faster than Boston.  The second week of October, the entire family traveled to Amsterdam, Netherlands for the Marathon.  The race turned out to be the flattest, fastest course I’ve ever run.  My time was a personal best of 3:07:47 (7:07 per mile).  Just as important though, my family had a great time and enjoyed the city. 

My final race in 2011 was my first here in Spain.  It was a local 10K that I decided to run the day after my 35^th birthday.  It was a spur of the moment decision and I registered about an hour before the start.  The race was a typical local race with just under 400 runners. I enjoyed the course, which ran near our home here, and ran a blistering 10K time of 38:26.  The only problem with this was that the course was nearly a 1/3 of a mile short.  Anyways, it was a good time and a chance to race for the first time in Spain.

The Lessons

One thing I always find when I look back on my year of running is that there are lessons to be learned.  Some of these are technical, some training, and some about life.  2011 had no shortage of these.  Below are a few of the things I’ve learned in 2011.

1)      Don’t sweat time.  Just run what’s comfortable and don’t worry about your pace.  Running is a lot more fun this way. 

2)      A slow first mile does not make for a slow marathon.  I ran my slowest ever mile in a marathon at Amsterdam.  Because of the stadium start and crowds early, I ran an 8+ minute mile in a race that I would average 7:07 a mile.  That race ended up being my PR.

3)      Take a deep breath and enjoy the sites.  My favorite runs this year had nothing to do with pace/time.  Among those that were memorable was a cold run in early February when John Hnat and I saw a bald eagle near Peninsula, a short three mile run around a lake in the Netherlands at sunrise, and a run in Borghese Park in Rome that offered panoramic views of Rome and the Vatican.  On a related note, a night run around a lit up Colosseum in Rome wasn’t too shabby either.

4)      Finally, take nothing for granted and do your best to enjoy every mile.  This lesson is one I learn every year, but one that was reinforced this year as I watched as my training partner in the U.S., and good friend John, battled though several injuries and eventually a major back surgery.  What runners have is a special thing, and can disappear with one wrong step or one violent cough.

To all of my friends that are runners I wish you a fulfilling healthy 2012.  May you reach all of your goals big and small in the coming 12 months.  To all those that aren’t, if you are looking for a way to improve your health and well-being in 2012, give it a try.  Just start slow and don’t get discouraged.  Just think, in a couple of years you too can write a long winded blog that bores your friends to tears.

Happy New Year!!!

Just before the start of the Amsterdam Marathon