Now that I’ve had nearly two weeks since our return from Rome, I’ve had some time to reflect on our trip and about how to chronicle this experience in my blog. While this may seem on the surface pretty simple, Rome is one of those cities that offer endless possibilities, memories, and experiences. During our eight days in the Italian Capital, we were able to see many of the big name attractions. We visited Capitoline Hill, the Capitoline Museum, the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel, the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, Piazza Del Fiore, Trastevere, and too many churches to count. With this in mind, you can see why it has taken awhile to process the trip and decide exactly what it is that I planned to share. What I’ve decided to do is pick the three site that moved me, talk about my experience there, and share a little of the history behind the site.
Galleria Borghese
Little did I know when I booked the tickets to Galleria Borghese that the experience I would share with my oldest son, on our first day in Rome, would be one of my most memorable of the trip. Walking about a half an hour from our apartment on Via Nazionale, we arrived to pick up our tickets at Galleria Borghese just before our scheduled tour time. The villa and grounds in which the collection resides were named after Cardinal Scipione Borghese. Borghese was the nephew of Pope Paul V and an avid art collector. He was a patron of Bernini (one of Italy’s greatest sculptors) and an early admirer and patron of Caravaggio.
Today the Galleria Borghese houses an extensive collection within its twenty rooms including works by Caravaggio, Bernini, Titian, Raphael, Rubens and Canova. The two pieces that I found most interesting were a painting titled Madonna and Child with St. Anne by Caravaggio and Canova’s masterful sculpture, Venus Victrix.
Caravaggio's Madonna and Child with St. Anne
The Caravaggio work is a standout piece, but also has quite a fascinating back story. Using his position and that of his uncle as Pope, Cardinal Borghese commissioned Caravaggio to paint a work that would hang in St. Peter’s Basilica. Although the commissioned work turned out to be quite impressive, the College of Cardinals turned down the painting due to its unconventional nature and earthly realism. With nowhere else for it to go, Borghese conveniently found a place for the controversial work in his own private collection. Some scholars today even go as far as to say that private ownership was Borghese’s intent all along. Nothing like commissioning a masterpiece and having the Vatican pick up the tab.
Among many other standout works in the museum is a sculpture by Italian artist, Canova. Although commissioned by the Borghese family, the work was completed long after the death of the Villa’s founder. The sculpture was produced between 1805-1808 and features Pauline Bonaparte, the wife of Camillo Borghese. In addition to marrying into the Borghese family, Pauline was also related to another quite famous historical figure. She was the sister of Napoleon Bonaparte.
Canova's Masterpiece
Both today and at the time, it remains a mystery as to whether Napoleon’s sister actually posed nude for the sculptor. While art historians point out that the figure in the sculpture is a classic Roman form, Pauline Bonaparte was known to hint that the work was true to form. When she was asked how she could possibly pose in such a state, she responded that the artist kept a small stove in the room so that she wouldn’t get too cold. Whether her comments were made stir a little bit of controversy or purely in truth we will never know.
The second of my favorite attractions in Rome is a fountain that has stolen the spotlight in many a Hollywood movie, all the while supporting and helping to feed Rome’s poor and homeless. The Trevi Fountain is one of those sites that you couldn’t visit Rome without seeing. Much like the Eiffel Tower, Big Ben, or the Colosseum, the fountain has grown to become a symbol of the city.
Rome's Trevi Fountain
Work began on the Trevi Fountain in 1732 after Rome born architect, Nicola Salvi, was awarded the commission. Interestingly enough, Salvi’s plan was actually the first runner up in the contest to design the fountain commissioned by Pope Clement XII. The winner of the contest was Florentine Alessandro Galilei. Unfortunately for the Florentine architect, old prejudices against outsiders cost him his chance and his commission. In all it would take thirty years to complete costing the fountain’s architect and Pope Clement XII the opportunity to see it in its final form. Both men were long dead by 1762.
While always a favorite of visitors to the city, the Trevi Fountain has gained increased notoriety as it has become the backdrop to many popular movies including Fellini’s La Dolce Vita and the 1953 classic American film, Roman Holiday starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.
Just a year after Roman Holiday, another picture was released titled Three Coins in the Fountain. This film and its Academy Award winning song helped to truly cement the custom of throwing a coin into the fountain. Legend holds that if you throw a coin into the fountain before leaving, then someday you will return to Rome. Like most tourists, we threw our coins into the waters of Trevi. Unlike most visitors to the city, we did so on all three occasions we found ourselves in the small square.
One little side note about the money that ends up in the fountain. It is believed that every day nearly 3,000 Euros ($4000) in change is tossed into the Trevi Fountain. This money is collected and used to subsidize a supermarket for the poor where those less fortunate can go to receive free food and groceries.
The final of my three sites that I would like mention is the Sistine Chapel. Although in size it pales in comparison to its nearby neighbor St Peter’s, the much smaller Capella Sistina is quite possibly the most famous church in the world.
Being inside the Sistine Chapel is like falling into a painting that comes to life all around you. With the exception of the floor, nearly every square inch of the place has been painted. The most famous of these paintings are those done by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1541. During two distinct stints in the chapel Michelangelo produced what many consider his greatest legacy for the art world. Michelangelo’s first contribution to the Sistine chapel was from 1508-1512 as he spent four years painting the ceiling. His work here depicts three major themes across nearly 12,000 square feet. The themes portrayed by Michelangelo are God’s Creation of the World, God’s Relationship with Mankind, and Mankind’s Fall from God’s Grace.
The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel
Following his work on the ceiling, Michelangelo grew disheartened with the church. He felt that his worked only served to satisfy Pope Julius II’s need for grandeur, not to glorify God. Despite this or perhaps because he was commissioned by a new Pope, Paul III, Michelangelo agreed to begin work again on the Chapel in 1535. This time he would spend from 1537-1541 creating The Last Judgment on the altar wall of the chapel. In this case, Michelangelo’s work tells the story of the second coming of Christ and the final judgment of mankind. Even after completing the Last Judgment at age 67, Michelangelo remained active. In 1547 he was named the head architect in the building of St. Peter’s Basilica. It was in this capacity that he designed the cathedral’s dome which was completed in 1590, twenty-six years after his death.
The Last Judgment
One final interesting fact about the Sistine Chapel is that it is the site of the Papal Conclave, the process by which the new Pope is chosen. During the Conclave a chimney is installed in the roof of the Chapel. When a new Pope is chosen, white smoke emerges from the chimney. When a vote is inconclusive, black smoke is released by the chimney. Voting has taken place in the Sistine Chapel since 1455.
While all the experiences you’ve just read about made Rome an amazing place to visit, it wouldn’t have been the same if I didn’t have the opportunity to see all these sites and more with such great company. As always my wife and the boys were my companions in this adventure, but in this instance we were also joined by my parents. One of the hardest parts about moving to Europe has been time away from family. I know it took a lot to pry my parents away from their comfort zone (and the United States), but in the end I think they really enjoyed the trip. I know we enjoyed having them with us to share the holidays.
My Parents with Benjamin and Douglas at the base of the Spanish Steps.
No comments:
Post a Comment