On our second full day in Fes, we stopped for a mint tea mid morning. The restaurant we stopped at was back a narrow alley with only a small sign out front. While the interior of the restuarant was beautiful, the crown jewel was this view from the restuarant's terrace. In the distance is the minaret of the Kairaouine Mosque and University. The Mosque is the second largest in Africa, and the University calims to be the oldest in the world. It was founded in 859 A.D.
The boys enjoying their mint tea. Mint tea is the most popular drink in Morocco and is served nearly everywhere from street sellers to the finest restaurants. The tea is made with a little bit of green tea, sugar, and a full sprig of fresh mint. In many cases additional mint is added to the glass as a garnish. It's sweet and delicious.
The Bou Inania Medersa. The Medersa, named after its founder Abou Inan Faris, was built between 1351 and 1356. At its height, it functioned as a both a religious school and a mosque. It is one of the few religious sites in Fes that is accessible to non-Muslims.
This is a typical street view in Fes taken early in the morning before the streets become crowded with vendors and stalls. You can see why the entire old city is off limits to vehicles. All transport within the Medina is done with horses, donkeys, and small carts.
Entrance to the Belghazi Museum that displays a variety of traditional Moroccan wares. It is housed in a 17th century palace. Notice the musicians in traditional dress to the right of the entrance. They are more than happy to perform for you, for a tip.
Kelly and the boys in front of the Bab Bou Jeloud (The Blue Gate). This gate is one of the main entrances to the Medina.
The Craftsmen of the Fes Medina
One of the best reasons to travel to Fes is to observe traditional artisans at work. Perhaps no where in the word can you still see so many traditional craftsmen at work. Even better, these wares are then for sale. The work done by these men and women reminds us of a simpler time when everything was made this way. What I enjoyed most was that these crafts are not put on or "demonstrated" the way we've become accustomed to seeing them done in western museums or craft shows. This is the real deal. If you see a man making buckets, it's because the people of the Medina need buckets to get water, not because they sell well in a gift shop.
This small stall is located of the Medina's main road, Talaa Kebira. The entire workshop is the size of a small storage until. The buckets are made using only hand tools, the artisans hands (and feet).
This photo shows another small workshop located off a main road in the Medina. The artisan shown is making pillows using traditional embroidered fabric.
One of the more interesting crafts we saw in Fes was this form of hand stamping or engraving metal. The patterns produced are beautifully intricate. Some pieces take days to finish.
The Pottery
In the hills above Fes, our guide took us to one of the many potteries. The amazing workshops produce tiles, mosaics, and a variety of pottery pieces. They are most famous for their Fes blue pottery. To make Fes blue, a mineral found in the area is ground to produce the paint. The pieces are then handpainted and fired.
In the pottery workshop, you are able to watch nearly all phases of production. The man above is is the process of producing the lid for a tangine.
When the pottery is ready it is hand painted. Notice that the paint isn't blue, it's purple. During the firing process the paint turns to the bright blue that is typical of Fes.
Pictured are three men chipping tiles that will be used to create mosaics for tables. Shown in front of them are some of the designs.
The Weavers
The Medina is home to many weavers who produce cloth, carpets, and scarves. Weaving is done with a variety of different materials including wool and Moroccan silk. Moroccan silk is made using the fibers from the Agave cactus. The agave is best known as the source of Mexican tequila. Because the Muslim faith prohibits alcohol, Moroccans use the fine fibers in the cactus to produce their version of silk. These natural fibers are then died using a variety of natural dyes like indigo (blue), poppy (red), and saffron (yellow).
This man is using his loom to weave a typical Moroccan scarf. According to our guide, he has been working in this shop for 45 years.
Moroccan silk is on being used at this loom. The silk is dyed with indigo to produce the beautiful color.
This photo shows Seffarine Square where traditional metal workers ply their trade. They make large copper and metal pots used in cooking and for a variety of other chores.
This is one of my favorite photos of the entire trip. It shows a group of men playing cards in one of the many carpet souks (markets) in the Medina. This particular souk was in an old funduq. Funduqs were the way stations for the caravans that once crossed Northern Africa. Arab traders lodged in the rooms that overlooked a central courtyard where the camels and goods were kept.
This is a great example of one of the traditional spice shops you find in the Medina. Spices are an incredibly important part of Moroccan cooking. Hundreds of spices and dried herbs can be found in a shop like this. Some of the most important locally are cinnamon, pepper, chilis, cumin, and saffron.
The Tanneries
Probably the most famous site in the old Medina are the Chouwara Tanneries. In addition to being the most popular destination, they are also the smelliest. Traditional hide tanning is done in two steps. The first involves scrapping and softening the hides with pigeon droppings. The second step is where the leather is dyed. Natural herbs and flowers are used to create the colors that are added to animal urine in the stone vats. As you apporach the area of the city where the tanneries are located you can tell you are getting close by the smell.
This photo shows a view of the tanneries from one of the leather merchant's balconies. These stores employ men who prowl the streets offering to take you to the tanneries. Many of these stores are accessed by a set of steep unmarked stairs that take you to the second level and balcony. Most storeowners are generous enough to offer a mint spring that hepls to ward off the smell. The men who "show" you the tanneries usually recieve tips or kickbacks from the shopowners for bringing in customers.
Another view of the tanneries from the leather shop balcony. Notice the bright yellow leather dryng on the nearby roofs. The yellow is dyed with saffron and is considered the most valuable. Among the types of leather available are hides from sheep, goats, camels, and cows.
This final photo shows the boys with Emad. Emad works at the Riad Al Atik where we stayed. Like many of the Moroccan's we met he was genuine and friendly. In the backrgound are the two French owners of the Riad. They too were incredibly helpful and friendly. They arranged our guide, transportation, and even took us to a nearby carpet shop.
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