Chinchon

Castillo de Los Condes located just outside of Chinchon

Located only a short ride just outside of Madrid the small community of Chinchon is a step back in time to the 16^th century. The village is ideally located near the Tajuna River and the fertile valley that surrounds it.  Even today a variety of crops are grown here including corn, wheat, and the crop that has brought them their notoriety, anise. 

                It is impossible to visit Chinchon today and not feel the sense of pride its people feel in their famous Chinchon liquor.  Chinchon is anis flavored liquor available in three varieties.  Dulce, which is sweetened, Seco which is dry, and Seco Especial which is used to catch things on fire (at 74% alcohol this isn’t hard to accomplish).  In addition to their famous alcohol, they use anise in baking, cooking etc…  Although the use of Anise to flavor alcohol is pretty common in the Mediterranean (think ouzo in Greece) the stuff coming out of Chinchon is believed to be some of the best in the world.

Chinchon's most famous product.

                Out visit on Saturday December 3^rd, was actually my second to the sleepy little village.  The boys and I had made the trip back in August on a scorching 90+ degree day.  It goes without saying that this one was much more pleasant with temps in the mid 50’s and with Kelly coming along.  We began our visit in the most famous part of Chinchon, the Plaza Mayor.  The main or old Square, as it would be called in English, is considered one of the most interesting in all of Spain.  It features four story balconied buildings surrounding a circular plaza.  The square itself was first laid out and construction was begun in 1499 and completed in the 1500’s.  During the summertime the plaza comes alive as a bullring is constructed at the center and for three months bullfights are held.  This culminates with a celebration in mid-August that brings Spain’s most famous matadors to town.

Chinchon's famous Plaza Mayor with the Iglesia de la Asuncion above it on the hill.

                Our visit began in the Plaza Mayor where we visited some of the shops and a small museum dedicated to Chinchon’s role in the production of wine, olive oil, and of course Chinchon liquor.  After the visit to the museum, we headed up one of the city’s narrow streets to the Iglesia de la Asuncion (Church of the Ascension).  The church is from the 16^th century with a painting by Goya above the altar.  Unfortunately, the church is only open just before mass so we were unable to see the painting in person.  One thing we didn’t miss though was the view from the hill that the church rests on.  It overlooks the Plaza Mayor and, on an opposite hill, the ruined Castillo de los Condes (Castle of the Counts) which is not open to the public.

View from the church with the castle in the background.

                After our hike to the church, we headed to the Meson Quinones and the Cuevas del Murcielagos (Caves of the bats).  The caves themselves were actually free of bats, but were a wonderful atmospheric place to get a glass of wine.  Essentially the caves are the wine cellar of the restaurant.   They are carved out of the rock that that building sits on.  They are complete with giant clay pots that the wine was aged in before it was served.  For only one euro, you got a small pottery glass of wine (about 2 oz.), that you could keep, and the chance to explore the wine cellar.

The caves (wine cellar) at Meson Quinones

                After exploring the wine cellar, we headed back to the Plaza Mayor for lunch at one of the many village Mesons.  Mesons are restaurants that specialize in all varieties of roasted meats.  Those in Chinchon are especially famous for their roast lamb.  Although I love lamb, I decided instead to have a roast loin of Iberian pig.  This is a special semi-wild pig that is only native to Spain.  Its diet is made up almost entirely of acorns which gives the meat a wonderful nutty flavor.  Iberico (as it’s called in Spain) is also incredibly popular either cured or made into chorizo.  In addition to the Iberian pork loin, I had Sopa de Chinchon (Chinchon soup) that was made with pork, bread, onions, sweet paprika, and a whole poached egg.  For dessert I ordered leche frito or fried milk.  It was a dessert made with boiled milk, egg, flour, bread and sugar.  This is then made into slices of custard that are breaded and fried, not exactly a healthy choice, but certainly a delicious one.  To top it off, the server poured Chinchon Seco Especial over the top and caught the whole dessert on fire.  Just the look on the kid’s face made it worth the price of the dessert.     

The kitchen at La Virreina restaurant.

                After lunch we had one last surprise as there was a man standing at the center of the Plaza Mayor offering carriage rides through the city.  In all honesty I thought they would be too expense for the four of us, but Kelly and I were shocked as he only wanted three Euros per person for the ride.  So that’s how our day out ended, flying through the streets of an old Spanish town in a horse drawn carriage with only the sounds of the horses hoofs clopping through the ancient narrow streets.  It was an amazing day out and one that we will carry memories of long after we’ve returned from Spain.                   

Douglas and Benjamin in front of the carriage.