San Isidro de Labrador
The Patron Saint of Madrid
One of the more interesting differences between living in Europe and the United States is the public expression of religious belief. Unlike in the United States where some churches seem almost desperate to share their message, the Catholic Church here takes a much more laid back approach. The Church in Spain is an institution that has been around for nearly two thousand years. They don’t feel a need to prove themselves. Unlike in the United States, there is no separation of church and state and Catholicism is supported by the state. Here there are no worries about public funded religious symbolism, “one nation under God”, or the Ten Commandments being displayed in public. Religion, society, and government are intertwined for better or worse.
All in all, ninety-four percent of Spaniards identify themselves as Catholic. Despite this, fifty-four percent only admit to attending mass for weddings and funerals. Even with their failure to attend mass on a regular basis, most Spaniards still take a great deal of pride in their traditional celebrations. Events like Saint’s days and religious processions. In Madrid, one of the most important days of the year is May 15th, the celebration of Saint Isadore the Laborer.
Isadore, or Isidro as he was known in Spain, was born in the small village of Madrid in 1070. San Isidro spent his days working as a day laborer for Juan De Vargas, with most of his time spent behind a plow in his master’s fields. Like all Saints, Isidro is credited with many miracles during his sixty years on Earth. Among other things, he is said to have attended mass every morning before going out to work. In one instance several of the other day laborers complained that Isidro was always the last to the field. When his master went to check on Isidro one morning, instead of the laborer, he found an angel doing his plowing. The angel was there so that Isidro could attend mass and not anger his master. In another story, Isidro is said to have done the work of three men as he was assisted by two angels in all he did.
Among his many credited miracles, San Isidro’s sainthood is tied to several spots in Madrid. The first of these is San Isidro’s well, which is located on the spot of his former master’s home. Just off the Plaza de San Andrés, the site is today the Museo de Origenes. Originally known as the Museo de San Isidro, today’s Museo de Origenes houses a number of archaeological finds including Roman tile flooring, ancient pottery, and other items related to Madrid’s early history. While the Museum has sought to become more than just a site to honor Isidro, the vast majority of those who visit are still looking to learn more about the Saint.
Tucked away in the lower level of the Museum is the site of one of Isidro’s most famous miracles. To reach San Isidro’s well, you descend a set of stairs into a small cylinder shaped room. The walls are adorned with images of the Saint, and set directly in the center of the floor is a plain well. The well is certainly nothing spectacular to look at. It is somewhat deteriorated and today has been covered with plexi-glass to prevent further decay. Descending fairly deep, the well is the site of one of Isidro’s greatest miracles. According to the story, San Isidro’s infant son fell down the well and was drowning. In an effort to save the young man, both Isidro and his wife Maria prayed to God for a miracle. Before the child drowned, the laborer’s prayers were answered as the water in the well rose and Isidro was able to save his young sons life.
San Isidro's Well
Another important site to the history of Madrid and San Isidro is the meadow named in his honor. Today San Isidro’s meadow has been renamed El Parque De San Isidro. It sits just outside the city near the banks of the Manzanares River. Legend has it that during his lifetime, San Isidro spent his days here tending to his master’s fields. Passing many a dusty day in the hot Madrid sun Isidro was often visited by his master. One day while his master was speaking with Isidro, he complained of the lack of water to drink in the meadow. San Isidro’s answer to his master was to ask for God’s help in satisfying his master’s thirst. Isidro prayed to God and struck the ground with his staff. Flowing forth from where he struck the ground was a crystal clear spring.
La Ermita de San Isidro (The Hermitage)
Today that spring still flows at San Isidro’s meadow. On the very site where Isidro quenched his master’s thirst there is now a hermitage, la Ermita de San isidro. At the side of the hermitage, in an enclosed courtyard, is a pipe that flows with water from San Isidro’s spring. This water is said to have curative powers, and several monarchs and other important figures have come to the hermitage looking for a cure to what ails them.
Entrance to the courtyard at La Ermita de San Isidro
San Isidro's Spring
In celebration of San Isidro’s day, May 15th, my family made the pilgrimage to San Isidro’s meadow. This is a tradition held by many generations of Madrileños. One of Francisco Goya’s most famous paintings depicts the meadow during the fiesta de San Isidro.
Goya's painting of San Isidro's Meadow on the Saint's Day
Today, the fiesta resembles more of a party or county fair than it does a religious celebration. There are booths with food, sweets, and breads. You can buy souvenirs, t-shirts, or even pottery. Despite the modern twist on the celebration, there are still elements that hark back to an earlier time. Many Madrileños still come to the fiesta in traditional dress.
Traditional Dress
Another carryover from past times are rosaquillas. Almost every booth has these, which are a tasty sweet shaped to resemble an American donut. Instead of the consistency of a donut, they have a dry, flaky texture and are usually covered with sugar, meringue, or chocolate. Some other flavors we saw at this year’s festival were cherry, orange, and lemon. In addition to the icing, Rosequillos are made with anis giving them a distinct flavor.
Merigue Rosaquillas
Although many today travel to San Isidro’s meadow more for the party than for the Saint, there are still those who wish to remember the real meaning of the day. To these individuals a visit to the meadow on May 15th would be incomplete without drinking from the famous spring that makes the spot special. Our family sought out the genuine experience as we joined the line that formed, winding from the courtyard and into the street, well away from the hermitage. Despite the length of the line, we soon found ourselves in the courtyard and looking at the spring. Arranged in front of the pipe flowing from San Isidro’s miracle spring were men with pitchers who filled the bottles of the faithful. For our part, we gave our offering and joined in with the locals to sip from glasses of water arranged on the table. Afterwards we took our pictures and headed back out into the sea of people.
Although we expect no miracles to come from sipping from San Isidro’s spring, it is experiences like this one that my family will remember long after we have left Spain and headed back to the United States. However brief, these moments open a window into the rich culture and heritage of Spain.
Ben and Doug showing off their traditional Spanish caps.
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