Chinchon

Castillo de Los Condes located just outside of Chinchon

Located only a short ride just outside of Madrid the small community of Chinchon is a step back in time to the 16^th century. The village is ideally located near the Tajuna River and the fertile valley that surrounds it.  Even today a variety of crops are grown here including corn, wheat, and the crop that has brought them their notoriety, anise. 

                It is impossible to visit Chinchon today and not feel the sense of pride its people feel in their famous Chinchon liquor.  Chinchon is anis flavored liquor available in three varieties.  Dulce, which is sweetened, Seco which is dry, and Seco Especial which is used to catch things on fire (at 74% alcohol this isn’t hard to accomplish).  In addition to their famous alcohol, they use anise in baking, cooking etc…  Although the use of Anise to flavor alcohol is pretty common in the Mediterranean (think ouzo in Greece) the stuff coming out of Chinchon is believed to be some of the best in the world.

Chinchon's most famous product.

                Out visit on Saturday December 3^rd, was actually my second to the sleepy little village.  The boys and I had made the trip back in August on a scorching 90+ degree day.  It goes without saying that this one was much more pleasant with temps in the mid 50’s and with Kelly coming along.  We began our visit in the most famous part of Chinchon, the Plaza Mayor.  The main or old Square, as it would be called in English, is considered one of the most interesting in all of Spain.  It features four story balconied buildings surrounding a circular plaza.  The square itself was first laid out and construction was begun in 1499 and completed in the 1500’s.  During the summertime the plaza comes alive as a bullring is constructed at the center and for three months bullfights are held.  This culminates with a celebration in mid-August that brings Spain’s most famous matadors to town.

Chinchon's famous Plaza Mayor with the Iglesia de la Asuncion above it on the hill.

                Our visit began in the Plaza Mayor where we visited some of the shops and a small museum dedicated to Chinchon’s role in the production of wine, olive oil, and of course Chinchon liquor.  After the visit to the museum, we headed up one of the city’s narrow streets to the Iglesia de la Asuncion (Church of the Ascension).  The church is from the 16^th century with a painting by Goya above the altar.  Unfortunately, the church is only open just before mass so we were unable to see the painting in person.  One thing we didn’t miss though was the view from the hill that the church rests on.  It overlooks the Plaza Mayor and, on an opposite hill, the ruined Castillo de los Condes (Castle of the Counts) which is not open to the public.

View from the church with the castle in the background.

                After our hike to the church, we headed to the Meson Quinones and the Cuevas del Murcielagos (Caves of the bats).  The caves themselves were actually free of bats, but were a wonderful atmospheric place to get a glass of wine.  Essentially the caves are the wine cellar of the restaurant.   They are carved out of the rock that that building sits on.  They are complete with giant clay pots that the wine was aged in before it was served.  For only one euro, you got a small pottery glass of wine (about 2 oz.), that you could keep, and the chance to explore the wine cellar.

The caves (wine cellar) at Meson Quinones

                After exploring the wine cellar, we headed back to the Plaza Mayor for lunch at one of the many village Mesons.  Mesons are restaurants that specialize in all varieties of roasted meats.  Those in Chinchon are especially famous for their roast lamb.  Although I love lamb, I decided instead to have a roast loin of Iberian pig.  This is a special semi-wild pig that is only native to Spain.  Its diet is made up almost entirely of acorns which gives the meat a wonderful nutty flavor.  Iberico (as it’s called in Spain) is also incredibly popular either cured or made into chorizo.  In addition to the Iberian pork loin, I had Sopa de Chinchon (Chinchon soup) that was made with pork, bread, onions, sweet paprika, and a whole poached egg.  For dessert I ordered leche frito or fried milk.  It was a dessert made with boiled milk, egg, flour, bread and sugar.  This is then made into slices of custard that are breaded and fried, not exactly a healthy choice, but certainly a delicious one.  To top it off, the server poured Chinchon Seco Especial over the top and caught the whole dessert on fire.  Just the look on the kid’s face made it worth the price of the dessert.     

The kitchen at La Virreina restaurant.

                After lunch we had one last surprise as there was a man standing at the center of the Plaza Mayor offering carriage rides through the city.  In all honesty I thought they would be too expense for the four of us, but Kelly and I were shocked as he only wanted three Euros per person for the ride.  So that’s how our day out ended, flying through the streets of an old Spanish town in a horse drawn carriage with only the sounds of the horses hoofs clopping through the ancient narrow streets.  It was an amazing day out and one that we will carry memories of long after we’ve returned from Spain.                   

Douglas and Benjamin in front of the carriage.

El Cid’s Castle (Almonacid)

Almonacid Castle

With family in town for the past week and a half, we have had the opportunity to see much of the city and also to travel outside of Madrid for several new adventures.  One of these new adventures took us south of Toledo, roughly an hour and a half from Madrid, to the small town of Almonacid.  Almonacid is not a town you will come across in any of the major tour books.  The only reason we even knew of its existence was a small entry at the back of a guide on the city of Toledo.  It was listed as an entry for a Castle Route looping through Castile-La Mancha.

Village of Almonacid

            At first glance it should come as no surprise that this town of only 813 inhabitants fails to make any best of lists.  It is a run of the mill small Spanish town with few restaurants and no famous historical events to its credit.  The one outstanding characteristic of Almonacid is the ruins of its castle high on a ridge overlooking the town. 

Almonacid Castle (Taken just outside the outer wall)

            The Almonacid castle is an imposing structure of dark stone.  Its claim to fame was that it was once a favorite residence of Spain’s greatest military commander, El Cid.  El Cid was born Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar in a small village about six miles north of Burgos in Spain.  He first earned acclaim fighting under Sancho II.  This continued until the leader’s untimely assassination.  After his death Sancho’s brother, Alfonso VI, assumed the throne.  El Cid and Alfonso immediately clashed after the commander was part of a group that demanded that Alfonso swear an oath saying that he had nothing to do with his brother’s murder.  Rumor had circulated through the court that Alfonso had a part in the killing. 

            Even with the rocky start, El Cid acted as Alfonso’s military commander for the next seven years until the two had another falling out.  This time the dispute arose after El Cid carried out a successful, albeit an unauthorized, raid into Granada.  This appears to have been the final straw for the king.  On May 8, 1080, Alfonso VI exiled El Cid.  He then travelled through Spain as an exile before eventually settling in the Moorish City of Zaragoza.   At Zaragoza, El Cid’s talent was recognized by his former enemies and he was put into their service as a military leader.  In this position he led a Moorish army against the Christian forces of Spain winning a number of battles.

            Desperate and without another choice King Alfonso VI recalled his exiled commander allowing him almost complete freedom in leading his new army which was made up of both Christians and Moors.  With this new army, El Cid  conquered the Mediterranean city of Valencia.  Unfortunately for El Cid his victories couldn’t last forever.  After three relatively peaceful years in Valencia, he was killed by an arrow after the city fell under siege.  After his death, his wife  escaped the city with his body.  It was buried at the monastery of San Pedro de Cardeña in Castille.  Later the body was moved and placed at the center of Burgos Cathedral.

            After arriving in Almonacid, we spent the first twenty minutes just trying to find a way up to the castle.  What we eventually learned was that the castle is only accessible by foot.  There are two paths winding their way to the top of the ridge.  The easier of the two is a meandering path that switches back and forth taking probably a half an hour on foot to reach the castle.  The other option was a very steep path straight up to the castle taking only ten to fifteen minutes.  This path though is not for the weak of heart.  It was steep enough that even though I elected to go up that way, I wasn’t about to go down on the same path for fear of falling.

            Because it was late afternoon when we arrived at the castle, I was the only one that elected to make the hike to the top.  It was probably one of the best decisions I’ve made since arriving in Spain.  What I found in the castle ruins was a unique, genuine experience with Spanish history.   It’s something I’ll carry with me as a memory of this experience for the rest of my life.

View from the back side of the castle

            Arriving at the top of the ridge and at the base of the castle wall, I was greeted with beautiful panoramic views of the town and the surrounding countryside. It was also apparent from up close that the state of castle was poor.  Although the walls were largely intact, there were several large holes providing access to the inner wall and eventually the keep.

            After making a circle of the exterior wall, I entered through a gap and walked around the inner wall.  The inner wall was fascinating because of the insight it provided into the castles defenses.  Between the inner and outer walls were small indentations with room for archers to keep attackers at bay.

Small protected areas for the archers.

            From the inner wall I was able to find my way into the courtyard and eventually the castle keep. To my surprise, the keep was intact and open.  It was quite an experience to stand inside the central tower, looking up at the remains of its stone roof and imagining the history that took place there.

Castle Keep (taken from the courtyard)

            Later, to my surprise, I was joined by my five year old, Benjamin, and my father-in-Law Greg.  I was pleased to show them the castle and share the experience.  That said, I’m glad that I spent some time in the ruins alone.  It provided me with an experience I’ll always treasure.

Castle Walls from the inside looking out.

View from the base of the outer wall.

La Fiesta de San Isidro

San Isidro de Labrador

The Patron Saint of Madrid

            One of the more interesting differences between living in Europe and the United States is the public expression of religious belief.  Unlike in the United States where some churches seem almost desperate to share their message, the Catholic Church here takes a much more laid back approach.  The Church in Spain is an institution that has been around for nearly two thousand years. They don’t feel a need to prove themselves. Unlike in the United States, there is no separation of church and state and Catholicism is supported by the state.  Here there are no worries about public funded religious symbolism, “one nation under God”, or the Ten Commandments being displayed in public.  Religion, society, and government are intertwined for better or worse.

            All in all, ninety-four percent of Spaniards identify themselves as Catholic.  Despite this, fifty-four percent only admit to attending mass for weddings and funerals.  Even with their failure to attend mass on a regular basis, most Spaniards still take a great deal of pride in their traditional celebrations.  Events like Saint’s days and religious processions.  In Madrid, one of the most important days of the year is May 15^th, the celebration of Saint Isadore the Laborer.

            Isadore, or Isidro as he was known in Spain, was born in the small village of Madrid in 1070.  San Isidro spent his days working as a day laborer for Juan De Vargas, with most of his time spent behind a plow in his master’s fields.  Like all Saints, Isidro is credited with many miracles during his sixty years on Earth.  Among other things, he is said to have attended mass every morning before going out to work.  In one instance several of the other day laborers complained that Isidro was always the last to the field.  When his master went to check on Isidro one morning, instead of the laborer, he found an angel doing his plowing.  The angel was there so that Isidro could attend mass and not anger his master.  In another story, Isidro is said to have done the work of three men as he was assisted by two angels in all he did.

            Among his many credited miracles, San Isidro’s sainthood is tied to several spots in Madrid.  The first of these is San Isidro’s well, which is located on the spot of his former master’s home.  Just off the Plaza de San Andrés, the site is today the Museo de Origenes.  Originally known as the Museo de San Isidro, today’s Museo de Origenes houses a number of archaeological finds including Roman tile flooring, ancient pottery, and other items related to Madrid’s early history.  While the Museum has sought to become more than just a site to honor Isidro, the vast majority of those who visit are still looking to learn more about the Saint.

            Tucked away in the lower level of the Museum is the site of one of Isidro’s most famous miracles.  To reach San Isidro’s well, you descend a set of stairs into a small cylinder shaped room.  The walls are adorned with images of the Saint, and set directly in the center of the floor is a plain well.  The well is certainly nothing spectacular to look at.  It is somewhat deteriorated and today has been covered with plexi-glass to prevent further decay.  Descending fairly deep, the well is the site of one of Isidro’s greatest miracles.  According to the story, San Isidro’s infant son fell down the well and was drowning.  In an effort to save the young man, both Isidro and his wife Maria prayed to God for a miracle.  Before the child drowned, the laborer’s prayers were answered as the water in the well rose and Isidro was able to save his young sons life.

San Isidro's Well

            Another important site to the history of Madrid and San Isidro is the meadow named in his honor.  Today San Isidro’s meadow has been renamed El Parque De San Isidro.  It sits just outside the city near the banks of the Manzanares River.   Legend has it that during his lifetime, San Isidro spent his days here tending to his master’s fields.  Passing many a dusty day in the hot Madrid sun Isidro was often visited by his master.  One day while his master was speaking with Isidro, he complained of the lack of water to drink in the meadow.  San Isidro’s answer to his master was to ask for God’s help in satisfying his master’s thirst.  Isidro prayed to God and struck the ground with his staff.  Flowing forth from where he struck the ground was a crystal clear spring.

La Ermita de San Isidro (The Hermitage)

            Today that spring still flows at San Isidro’s meadow.  On the very site where Isidro quenched his master’s thirst there is now a hermitage, la Ermita de San isidro.  At the side of the hermitage, in an enclosed courtyard, is a pipe that flows with water from San Isidro’s spring.  This water is said to have curative powers, and several monarchs and other important figures have come to the hermitage looking for a cure to what ails them.

Entrance to the courtyard at La Ermita de San Isidro

San Isidro's Spring

            In celebration of San Isidro’s day, May 15^th, my family made the pilgrimage to San Isidro’s meadow.  This is a tradition held by many generations of Madrileños.  One of Francisco Goya’s most famous paintings depicts the meadow during the fiesta de San Isidro.

Goya's painting of San Isidro's Meadow on the Saint's Day

            Today, the fiesta resembles more of a party or county fair than it does a religious celebration.  There are booths with food, sweets, and breads.  You can buy souvenirs, t-shirts, or even pottery.  Despite the modern twist on the celebration, there are still elements that hark back to an earlier time.  Many Madrileños still come to the fiesta in traditional dress. 

Traditional Dress

            Another carryover from past times are rosaquillas.  Almost every booth has these, which are a tasty sweet shaped to resemble an American donut.  Instead of the consistency of a donut, they have a dry, flaky texture and are usually covered with sugar, meringue, or  chocolate.  Some other flavors we saw at this year’s festival were cherry, orange, and lemon.   In addition to the icing, Rosequillos are made with anis giving them a distinct flavor. 

Merigue Rosaquillas

            Although many today travel to San Isidro’s meadow more for the party than for the Saint, there are still those who wish to remember the real meaning of the day.  To these individuals a visit to the meadow on May 15^th would be incomplete without drinking from the famous spring that makes the spot special.  Our family sought out the genuine experience as we joined the line that formed, winding from the courtyard and into the street, well away from the hermitage.  Despite the length of the line, we soon found ourselves in the courtyard and looking at the spring.  Arranged in front of the pipe flowing from San Isidro’s miracle spring were men with pitchers who filled the bottles of the faithful.  For our part, we gave our offering and joined in with the locals to sip from glasses of water arranged on the table.  Afterwards we took our pictures and headed back out into the sea of people.

            Although we expect no miracles to come from sipping from San Isidro’s spring, it is experiences like this one that my family will remember long after we have left Spain and headed back to the United States. However brief, these moments open a window into the rich culture and heritage of Spain.            

            

Ben and Doug showing off their traditional Spanish caps.



Segovia in Pictures

The four of us at Alcazar



To celebrate Mother's Day in Spain (Dia de la Madre), our family decided to take our first trip outside of Madrid.  We travelled 90 km to the town of Segovia.  A trip to Segovia is like taking a trip back in time to the old world.  The original section of town features a Roman Aqueduct, a 15th century cathedral, and the 1862 reconstruction of the 12th century castle of Alcazar.  Unlike some of my previous posts, I'm going to keep my words to a minimum.  The pictures of this beautiful old town tell enough of the story.

View of the Cathedral from Alcazar

View of Segovia

Benjamin in the Plaza de San Martin

Iglesia de San Martin (Church of Saint Martin) 13th century

Labor march near the Aqueduct



The Roman Aqueduct

Constructed in 50 A.D. the Roman Aqueduct was used to bring water from 18 kilometers away.  Built with no mortar, it remained in use through the 19th century. 

Segovia's Roman Aqueduct viewed from the city's 11th century wall.

Standing 28 meters high, the aqueduct is constructed of 20,000 granite blocks.

Kelly and I in front of the Aqueduct.



In 1474, Isabel was crowned queen of Castille in La Iglesia de San Miguel (Church of Saint Miguel).  Most Americans recognize her as the Queen who financed Christopher Columbus on his voyage to the New World in 1492. 

Exterior of the Church of San Miguel

Plaque commemorating the coronation of Queen Isabel of Castille. 

Interior of the Church of San Miguel

After the destruction of the original Cathedral of Segovia in 1521, work began on a new gothic cathedral.  Fifty years later work was completed on the new Cathedral of Segovia.  This imposing structure dominates the western corner of Segovia's Plaza Mayor.

View of the Cathedral of Segovia taken from Plaza Mayor.

Entrance to the Cathedral of Segovia

Located on the fortified western edge of Segovia, Alcazar rises dramatically from the landscape.  Originally constructed in the 12th century, it was used as a royal residence for the Austrian monarchs.  Much of the original castle was destroyed by a devastating fire in 1862.  Today the castle has been fully restored and reconstructed.  Walt Disney is said to have modeled Sleeping Beauty's Castle in California after Alcazar.

Alcazar

Spanish flag flying over Alcazar

Tower at Alcazar

Benjamin at Alcazar

 



Searching for the Black Irish

      

      One of my favorite myths concerning the Irish, and there are many, is that of the Black Irish.  Over time the term has been used to describe people of Irish descent who exhibit dark features that are not otherwise seen on the island.  For years people have hypothesized that these people were the descendants of some invader to the island during its long history.  While the theory is most likely true to some extent, some of the stories that have been told as proof of the theory are about as likely as a leprechaun guarding a pot of gold.

            One form of the Black Irish legend says that invaders from Spain, known as Milesians, sailed to Ireland to invade the island in retaliation for the murder of their uncle ľth.  The eight nephews, or Míl Espáine, (Soldiers of España) invaded Ireland to face off with the three Irish kings.  After negotiating with the kings, the Soldiers of España agreed to sail nine waves from Ireland.  If when they had sailed the nine waves they were still able to land on the island, it would be theirs. The soldiers set sail, but they were tricked by the kings who used magic to whip up a storm.  During the storm, five of the soldiers were killed but the remaining three were able to land and thus take possession of Ireland.  These kings then brought their Mediterranean looks and traits to mix with the Irish. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milesians_(Irish)

            One other explanation for the dark featured Irish is even more unlikely than the magical storm and three Soldiers of España.  Some argue that the black haired and brown eyed Irish men and women are actually descendants of Spanish traders or even survivors of the Spanish Armada. The theory involving the Armada is that a small number of survivors washed up on the western coast of Ireland after Spain’s mighty Navy was defeated by the English in 1588.  These survivors chose to make their home on the Emerald Isle, intermarrying and passing on their dominant dark features to future generations of Irish children.  While it’s a great story, some would even say something out of a romance novel, very little evidence exists to support the theory.   It is unlikely that a few lone soldiers were able to make a life in a war-torn foreign land, and have a significant genetic impact.  Most likely the evidence of dark features in Ireland is the result of the many invading groups and traders that visited, conquered, or settled on the island over many thousands of years. http://www.ireland-information.com/articles/blackirish.htm

            Of course, I could’ve said all this at the very beginning but what fun would that be.  Anyways, this brings me to the subject of this blog post.  On Thursday March 17^th, I travelled into Madrid in search of the Black Irish.  Not the mythical Milesians or the shipwrecked Armada, but something a little more modest.  I went in search of the Irish spirit in Madrid on that greatest of all Irish holidays.  What began as an epic quest nearly became an epic failure, but like those three surviving Soldiers of España I eventually came to my reward.  Mine though was not the entire island, just a pint of their finest brew.

            My quest to find the Black Irish began not on a ship, but on a Metro train.  I decided that my first destination, seeing as how it was 10am and too early to hit the pub, would be the Irish Embassy here in Madrid.  Now, I confess that I’ve never before gone looking for an embassy but in all honesty I expected a little more.  The Irish embassy is located just north of the Rueben Dario Metro stop on Paseo de la Castellana.  The building itself is fairly unremarkable and in truth, I’m not really sure whether the building contained more than one embassy or just the Irish contingent. 

 

            Pictured above is the embassy.  Note the complete and total lack of shamrocks, leprechauns, parades, and  greenery. There wasn’t even someone out front handing out green Mardi Gras beads with Guiness emblems.  In all seriousness, I at least would have expected some sort of recognition or sign.  Disappointed, I  headed back towards Madrid hoping to seek solace in a pint of Ireland’s finest.

            From the embassy, I meandered down Paseo de la Castellana to Calle de Alcalà and over from there towards Sol.  On the way I stopped by a Starbucks. (I know it’s not Irish, but at least they have a green awning)  After Starbucks I took my coffee and headed to the Plaza de Colon (pictured).  Here I relaxed for a few moments and planned the rest of my day.  Ever since my first visit here, this plaza has fascinated me.  In the United States we have essentially disowned Christobal Colon, but in Spain he is still celebrated, but seeing as how this is St. Patrick’s Day, and Columbus was not Irish but Italian, we’ll leave this to another time.

Plaza de Colon

            Just before getting to the Plaza de Puerta del Sol, I turned onto Calle Principe and my second destination, O’Neill’s Pub.  To my absolute shock and despair, it was closed.  It was now going on noon, and the pub was CLOSED.  What about the green eggs, Irish sausages, beer!  Hoping that it was soon to open, I hung around the area for a while and actually stumble upon some real gems.  Nearby I found myself in the Plaza de Santa Ana.  This is one of the most entertaining squares in the city and a great starting out point for many a Spanish night out on the town.  Tucked away into one of the corners of the square is a small bar called Cervecería Alemana.  Translating to German brewhouse, this bar was one of the favorite hangouts for Ernest Hemmingway when he was spending time in Spain. 

            After exploring the square for awhile, it was now a little after 12:30, I headed back down to O’Neill’s for that all important first pint.  Again I had no luck.  I was now getting dangerously close to an epic failure in my search for the Black Irish.  I should note here that my quest was a PG rated one.  There would be no late nights of flowing Guiness, Jameson, and dancing a jig.  Instead, I had to return to La Moraleja by 4pm to pick up two very active boys from schools.  With only two hours remaining until I needed to be back on the Metro, I headed to my last hope, the James Joyce Pub near Banco de España.

             Sitting on Calle Alcalà, the James Joyce is a delightful little pub with good Irish cheer, great food, and yes, good Irish Guiness.  Most importantly, the pub was open for business.  I headed in and found myself a seat near the bar.  Although my server lacked a good Irish brogue, she actually only spoke Spanish, she understood Guiness and finally I had my St. Patty’s day prize.  Hungry after my quest, I also requested a menu and was delighted to see such classics as banger’s and mash, beef slow roasted in a Guiness sauce, sheperd’s pie, and even lamb stew. I ordered the lamb stew and settled back with my pint in my own little corner of Ireland.

Lamb stew at the James Joyce Pub (Estofado de Cordero)

            In the end I made it back in time to get the boys, content with a belly full of Irish goodness, and I even got a tacky Guiness hat to pass onto the kids.  Thanks to the James Joyce, I was able to find a little bit of Irish cheer in Madrid.