Rome – My Three Favorites

 Now  that I’ve had nearly two weeks since our return from Rome, I’ve had some time to reflect on our trip and about how to chronicle this experience in my blog.  While this may seem on the surface pretty simple, Rome is one of those cities that offer endless possibilities, memories, and experiences.  During our eight days in the Italian Capital, we were able to see many of the big name attractions.  We visited Capitoline Hill, the Capitoline Museum, the Colosseum, the Vatican, the Sistine Chapel, the Trevi Fountain, Piazza Navona, the Spanish Steps, Piazza Del Fiore, Trastevere, and too many churches to count.  With this in mind, you can see why it has taken awhile to process the trip and decide exactly what it is that I planned to share.  What I’ve decided to do is pick the three site that moved me, talk about my experience there, and share a little of the history behind the site.

Galleria Borghese

            Little did I know when I booked the tickets to Galleria Borghese that the experience I would share with my oldest son, on our first day in Rome, would be one of my most memorable of the trip.  Walking about a half an hour from our apartment on Via Nazionale, we arrived to pick up our tickets at Galleria Borghese just before our scheduled tour time.  The villa and grounds in which the collection resides were named after Cardinal Scipione Borghese.  Borghese was the nephew of Pope Paul V and an avid art collector.  He was a patron of Bernini (one of Italy’s greatest sculptors) and an early admirer and patron of Caravaggio.

            Today the Galleria Borghese houses an extensive collection within its twenty rooms including works by Caravaggio, Bernini, Titian, Raphael, Rubens and Canova.  The two pieces that I found most interesting were a painting titled Madonna and Child with St. Anne by Caravaggio and Canova’s masterful sculpture, Venus Victrix.

Caravaggio's Madonna and Child with St. Anne

            The Caravaggio work is a standout piece, but also has quite a fascinating back story.  Using his position and that of his uncle as Pope, Cardinal Borghese commissioned Caravaggio to paint a work that would hang in St. Peter’s Basilica.  Although the commissioned work turned out to be quite impressive, the College of Cardinals turned down the painting due to its unconventional nature and earthly realism.  With nowhere else for it to go, Borghese conveniently found a place for the controversial work in his own private collection.  Some scholars today even go as far as to say that private ownership was Borghese’s intent all along.  Nothing like commissioning a masterpiece and having the Vatican pick up the tab.

            Among many other standout works in the museum is a sculpture by Italian artist, Canova.  Although commissioned by the Borghese family, the work was completed long after the death of the Villa’s founder.  The sculpture was produced between 1805-1808 and features Pauline Bonaparte, the wife of Camillo Borghese.  In addition to marrying into the Borghese family, Pauline was also related to another quite famous historical figure.  She was the sister of Napoleon Bonaparte.

Canova's Masterpiece

            Both today and at the time, it remains a mystery as to whether Napoleon’s sister actually posed nude for the sculptor.  While art historians point out that the figure in the sculpture is a classic Roman form, Pauline Bonaparte was known to hint that the work was true to form.  When she was asked how she could possibly pose in such a state, she responded that the artist kept a small stove in the room so that she wouldn’t get too cold.  Whether her comments were made stir a little bit of controversy or purely in truth we will never know.

            The second of my favorite attractions in Rome is a fountain that has stolen the spotlight in many a Hollywood movie, all the while supporting and helping to feed Rome’s poor and homeless.  The Trevi Fountain is one of those sites that you couldn’t visit Rome without seeing.  Much like the Eiffel Tower, Big Ben, or the Colosseum, the fountain has grown to become a symbol of the city.

Rome's Trevi Fountain

            Work began on the Trevi Fountain in 1732 after Rome born architect, Nicola Salvi, was awarded the commission.  Interestingly enough, Salvi’s plan was actually the first runner up in the contest to design the fountain commissioned by Pope Clement XII.  The winner of the contest was Florentine Alessandro Galilei.  Unfortunately for the Florentine architect, old prejudices against outsiders cost him his chance and his commission.  In all it would take thirty years to complete costing the fountain’s architect and Pope Clement XII the opportunity to see it in its final form.  Both men were long dead by 1762.

            While always a favorite of visitors to the city, the Trevi Fountain has gained increased notoriety as it has become the backdrop to many popular movies including Fellini’s La Dolce Vita and the 1953 classic American film, Roman Holiday starring Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck.  

            Just a year after Roman Holiday, another picture was released titled Three Coins in the Fountain.  This film and its Academy Award winning song helped to truly cement the custom of throwing a coin into the fountain.  Legend holds that if you throw a coin into the fountain before leaving, then someday you will return to Rome.  Like most tourists, we threw our coins into the waters of Trevi.  Unlike most visitors to the city, we did so on all three occasions we found ourselves in the small square.

 One little side note about the money that ends up in the fountain.  It is believed that every day nearly 3,000 Euros ($4000) in change is tossed into the Trevi Fountain.  This money is collected and used to subsidize a supermarket for the poor where those less fortunate can go to receive free food and groceries.

The final of my three sites that I would like mention is the Sistine Chapel.  Although in size it pales in comparison to its nearby neighbor St Peter’s, the much smaller Capella Sistina is quite possibly the most famous church in the world.

Being inside the Sistine Chapel is like falling into a painting that comes to life all around you.  With the exception of the floor, nearly every square inch of the place has been painted. The most famous of these paintings are those done by Michelangelo between 1508 and 1541.  During two distinct stints in the chapel Michelangelo produced what many consider his greatest legacy for the art world.  Michelangelo’s first contribution to the Sistine chapel was from 1508-1512 as he spent four years painting the ceiling.  His work here depicts three major themes across nearly 12,000 square feet.  The themes portrayed by Michelangelo are God’s Creation of the World, God’s Relationship with Mankind, and Mankind’s Fall from God’s Grace.

The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel

Following his work on the ceiling, Michelangelo grew disheartened with the church.  He felt that his worked only served to satisfy Pope Julius II’s need for grandeur, not to glorify God.  Despite this or perhaps because he was commissioned by a new Pope, Paul III, Michelangelo agreed to begin work again on the Chapel in 1535.  This time he would spend from 1537-1541 creating The Last Judgment on the altar wall of the chapel.  In this case, Michelangelo’s work tells the story of the second coming of Christ and the final judgment of mankind.  Even after completing the Last Judgment at age 67, Michelangelo remained active.  In 1547 he was named the head architect in the building of St. Peter’s Basilica.  It was in this capacity that he designed the cathedral’s dome which was completed in 1590, twenty-six years after his death.

The Last Judgment

One final interesting fact about the Sistine Chapel is that it is the site of the Papal Conclave, the process by which the new Pope is chosen.  During the Conclave a chimney is installed in the roof of the Chapel.  When a new Pope is chosen, white smoke emerges from the chimney.  When a vote is inconclusive, black smoke is released by the chimney.  Voting has taken place in the Sistine Chapel since 1455.

While all the experiences you’ve just read about made Rome an amazing place to visit, it wouldn’t have been the same if I didn’t have the opportunity to see all these sites and more with such great company.  As always my wife and the boys were my companions in this adventure, but in this instance we were also joined by my parents.  One of the hardest parts about moving to Europe has been time away from family.  I know it took a lot to pry my parents away from their comfort zone (and the United States), but in the end I think they really enjoyed the trip.  I know we enjoyed having them with us to share the holidays.     

My Parents with Benjamin and Douglas at the base of the Spanish Steps.

Remus, Romulus and the Founding of Rome

Statue of Remus and Romulus with the She Wolf (Capitoline Museum)

Prior to visiting Rome, I may have heard the names Remus and Romulus but I honestly can’t recall if I ever heard the story of Rome’s founding.  After my visit and seeing the importance the twins have to the city’s history, I couldn’t help but do a little research to see what this foundation myth is all about. 

                My interest was sparked by the fairly common image of the two young twins being suckled by a she wolf.  This somewhat disturbing image has been adopted whether officially or unofficially by the city and appears on t-shirts, jackets, in sculpture, and works of art.  While it’s kind of a bizarre image to put forth representing your city, the story behind the image proves fascinating. 

                The earliest known history of the twins in believed to be from the writings of Diocles of Preparethus, a Greek historian that lived during the 3^rd and 4^th century BCE.  Later building on his work, famous historians Livy and Plutarch would add their two cents to Rome’s foundation myth.  Regardless of the historian, they all seem to agree on the beginning of the story of Remus and Romulus.

                According to the myth, Remus and Romulus were born to a Vestal Virgin named Rhea Silvia.  Silvia was not a Vestal Virgin by choice.  Instead she was forced into the arrangement by her uncle, Amulius.  Amulius used the power he wielded as treasurer of the kingdom of Alba Longa to overthrow his brother and Rhea’s father, Numitor.  After triumphing over his brother, Amulius’ concerns over any potential nephews lead to Rhea’s life as a Vestal Virgin.  Here’s where things get a little bazaar.  After she becomes a Vestal Virgin, Rhea Silvia is seduced by either the god Mars or in other versions, Hercules.  After finding out about his niece’s pregnancy, Amulius is furious and orders one of his servants to dispose of the twin boys.

                If the boys were to get the short end of the stick, things proved much worse for their mother.  In the kingdom of Alba Longa, Vestal Virgins were a sacred, important part of the kingdom’s religion.  Vestal Virgins were freed from obligations to marry and bare children.  They were considered priestesses of Vesta, goddess of the hearth.  By giving up their rights to bare children, etc… the Vestals were also forced to maintain a vow of chastity for thirty years.  Interestingly, after their service, they were permitted to marry and have children.  In later years, the Vestal Virgins were charged with maintaining a fire at the Temple of Vesta in Rome.  They were also responsible for tasks like drawing sacred water from the well and even safeguarding wills of important people.  In a sense they were the sacred housekeepers of the ancient world.

                The less glamorous side of being a Vestal Virgin was the harsh punishment they were subject to if they broke their vows.  According to law, it was illegal to spill the blood of a Vestal Virgin, even if they broke their vows.  To get around this, any Vestal Virgin caught breaking her vow was to be buried alive.  It appears that this was the fate that met Rhea Silvia when she was found pregnant.

                In regards to the twins, Amulius refused to bloody his own hands, so he charged one of his servants with killing the boys.  Unable to commit the crime, the servant placed the boys in a basket next to the River Tiber.  The river flooded and the boys were pushed downstream where they caught in the roots of a fig tree at the base of Palatine Hill.  Palatine Hill would eventually become the center of the ancient city.  Although the boys survived the river, they were still left to the elements and a certain death.  While in their basket alongside the river, the boys were discovered by a she wolf.  Instead of eating the easy meal, the wolf decided to take them as her own, allowing the boys to suckle and saving their lives.  This is the image that has become symbolic of the city today.

Painting by Ruebens of Remus and Romulus being found by the shepherd.  Looking on are Rhea and the god Mars/Hercules.

                Later, the boys were discovered by a shepherd, Faustulus, and his wife Acca Laurentia.  The couple raised the boys as they were their own children.  As the years passed, the boys became shepherds in their own right, coming into conflict with the shepherds of their uncle Amulius.  When the boys were brought in front of the King, their true identity was recognized and a battle was waged between the King and the twins.  Romulus and Remus triumphed over their uncle and were offered the crown of Alba Longa.  Instead of taking the crown, the twins instead decided to strike off on their own.  In Alba Longa they reinstated their grandfather Numitor before going off in search of a spot to found their own city. 

                In a twist of fate, their search brought them to within sight of where the she wolf found them many years earlier.  Near the river are two hills, Palatine Hill and Aventine Hill.  Although they both liked the spot, the boys got into an argument over where to build the city with each choosing a hill.  To settle the dispute, Remus climbed to the top of Aventine Hill and Romulus to the top of Palatine Hill.  After asking for a sign from the gods, Remus saw six eagles (or vultures depending on the story) and Romulus saw twelve.  Claiming that his site has been chosen by the gods, Romulus began to construct his city on Palatine Hill.  The sources seem to agree that the year was 753 BCE.

Ancient Roman Ruins near Palatine Hill



                Despite the signs from the gods to the contrary, Remus refused to acknowledge Palatine Hill and becomes a thorn in his brother’s side.  As his brother constructs a wall/ditch around the hill, Remus criticizes the work and even went as far as to obstruct Romulus’ construction.  In a final act of disrespect towards his brother’s choice of Palatine Hill, Remus made a mockery of the wall/ditch by jumping it.  This is the final straw for Romulus and his followers, and they killed Remus.  In one account he is killed by his brother, and in another one of the workers on the wall/ditch hits him over the head with a spade.

                Under Romulus rule the city grows and prospers eventually incorporating several other local kingdoms including Alba Longa.  It is also under Romulus that the Roman system of senatorial rule materializes.  Ironically many believe that a conflict with the Senate lead to Romulus’ downfall.  Regardless of what happened later in his rule, the story of Remus and Romulus is a fascinating foundation myth that continues to define the city 2700 years later. 

               

My Year in Running 2011

At the Race Expo for the Amsterdam Marathon

If there is one thing about 2011 that I can be certain about, it’s that it hasn’t been business as usual.  We all have years in our lives that are relatively stable and those that jerk the rug out from underneath us.  For me, 2011 was the later.  After five years of the same job for both Kelly and I, and no new additions to the family (except for Buddy), we decided to shake things up with a move to Madrid in March.  While this “adventure” has brought its share of joy to our family, it has not been without its challenges.  Despite these challenges and instability, the one thing that has remained a constant for me in 2011 is running.  Some people have church, others rely on the online community, or one of a million legal or illegal substances.  What gets me through the day and helps me to deal with the day to day stresses of kids, family, life etc… is running.

            One thing I’ve always done since I began running in the summer of 2000 is to keep a running log.  In the past few years I’ve come to enjoy spending the first day of the year looking back on what I’ve accomplished the past year.  I’m not one to post daily runs and I don’t race that often, so I rarely use Facebook to talk about running.  This year though I’ve decided to share this reflection with those reading my blog.  I know it’s a little self-serving, but I would encourage all of my running friends to give it a try.  Reflecting on your accomplishments is a great way to get motivated for the coming year and an opportunity to learn from the past year. 

By the numbers

Despite all the instability this year, 2011 was a great year for me running wise.  I ran longer, in more places, and faster than I ever have.  According to the numbers, I ran a grand total of 2712 miles in 2011.  That is an improvement of about 140 miles over 2010.  Of course, many of these extra miles were possible because I’ve been living in Spain since March.  My highest month this year was July when I totaled 281 miles, while my lowest month was April when I ran the Boston Marathon and leapfrogged between the U.S. and Spain.  Overall I had 19 weeks where I ran between 50-59 miles, 15 weeks where I was between 60-69 miles, and two weeks at 70 or above.  These two weeks were also my highest two ever with the week of December 4^th at 71miles my highest all time.

The races

Although I’ve never been a weekend warrior racing a 5K every week, I do like to race 5 to 10 times a year.  This year though was a little out of the ordinary.  With everything going on, I raced only three times in 2011.  The first of these was arguably the most famous road race in the world, the Boston Marathon.  I won’t go into detail here as I already wrote a blog about my experience, but it was a good solid race for me with a time of 3:15:47 (7:28 per mile).  More importantly it was an opportunity to check something off my life list.  Getting to the finish line on Boylston Street is no easy task, although some would argue that it’s much easier than getting to the starting line.  Although it wasn’t my fastest race, it was fun to be part of the spectacle in 2011.

My race bib for the Boston Marathon

My second race of 2011 turned out to be much faster than Boston.  The second week of October, the entire family traveled to Amsterdam, Netherlands for the Marathon.  The race turned out to be the flattest, fastest course I’ve ever run.  My time was a personal best of 3:07:47 (7:07 per mile).  Just as important though, my family had a great time and enjoyed the city. 

My final race in 2011 was my first here in Spain.  It was a local 10K that I decided to run the day after my 35^th birthday.  It was a spur of the moment decision and I registered about an hour before the start.  The race was a typical local race with just under 400 runners. I enjoyed the course, which ran near our home here, and ran a blistering 10K time of 38:26.  The only problem with this was that the course was nearly a 1/3 of a mile short.  Anyways, it was a good time and a chance to race for the first time in Spain.

The Lessons

One thing I always find when I look back on my year of running is that there are lessons to be learned.  Some of these are technical, some training, and some about life.  2011 had no shortage of these.  Below are a few of the things I’ve learned in 2011.

1)      Don’t sweat time.  Just run what’s comfortable and don’t worry about your pace.  Running is a lot more fun this way. 

2)      A slow first mile does not make for a slow marathon.  I ran my slowest ever mile in a marathon at Amsterdam.  Because of the stadium start and crowds early, I ran an 8+ minute mile in a race that I would average 7:07 a mile.  That race ended up being my PR.

3)      Take a deep breath and enjoy the sites.  My favorite runs this year had nothing to do with pace/time.  Among those that were memorable was a cold run in early February when John Hnat and I saw a bald eagle near Peninsula, a short three mile run around a lake in the Netherlands at sunrise, and a run in Borghese Park in Rome that offered panoramic views of Rome and the Vatican.  On a related note, a night run around a lit up Colosseum in Rome wasn’t too shabby either.

4)      Finally, take nothing for granted and do your best to enjoy every mile.  This lesson is one I learn every year, but one that was reinforced this year as I watched as my training partner in the U.S., and good friend John, battled though several injuries and eventually a major back surgery.  What runners have is a special thing, and can disappear with one wrong step or one violent cough.

To all of my friends that are runners I wish you a fulfilling healthy 2012.  May you reach all of your goals big and small in the coming 12 months.  To all those that aren’t, if you are looking for a way to improve your health and well-being in 2012, give it a try.  Just start slow and don’t get discouraged.  Just think, in a couple of years you too can write a long winded blog that bores your friends to tears.

Happy New Year!!!

Just before the start of the Amsterdam Marathon

Chinchon

Castillo de Los Condes located just outside of Chinchon

Located only a short ride just outside of Madrid the small community of Chinchon is a step back in time to the 16^th century. The village is ideally located near the Tajuna River and the fertile valley that surrounds it.  Even today a variety of crops are grown here including corn, wheat, and the crop that has brought them their notoriety, anise. 

                It is impossible to visit Chinchon today and not feel the sense of pride its people feel in their famous Chinchon liquor.  Chinchon is anis flavored liquor available in three varieties.  Dulce, which is sweetened, Seco which is dry, and Seco Especial which is used to catch things on fire (at 74% alcohol this isn’t hard to accomplish).  In addition to their famous alcohol, they use anise in baking, cooking etc…  Although the use of Anise to flavor alcohol is pretty common in the Mediterranean (think ouzo in Greece) the stuff coming out of Chinchon is believed to be some of the best in the world.

Chinchon's most famous product.

                Out visit on Saturday December 3^rd, was actually my second to the sleepy little village.  The boys and I had made the trip back in August on a scorching 90+ degree day.  It goes without saying that this one was much more pleasant with temps in the mid 50’s and with Kelly coming along.  We began our visit in the most famous part of Chinchon, the Plaza Mayor.  The main or old Square, as it would be called in English, is considered one of the most interesting in all of Spain.  It features four story balconied buildings surrounding a circular plaza.  The square itself was first laid out and construction was begun in 1499 and completed in the 1500’s.  During the summertime the plaza comes alive as a bullring is constructed at the center and for three months bullfights are held.  This culminates with a celebration in mid-August that brings Spain’s most famous matadors to town.

Chinchon's famous Plaza Mayor with the Iglesia de la Asuncion above it on the hill.

                Our visit began in the Plaza Mayor where we visited some of the shops and a small museum dedicated to Chinchon’s role in the production of wine, olive oil, and of course Chinchon liquor.  After the visit to the museum, we headed up one of the city’s narrow streets to the Iglesia de la Asuncion (Church of the Ascension).  The church is from the 16^th century with a painting by Goya above the altar.  Unfortunately, the church is only open just before mass so we were unable to see the painting in person.  One thing we didn’t miss though was the view from the hill that the church rests on.  It overlooks the Plaza Mayor and, on an opposite hill, the ruined Castillo de los Condes (Castle of the Counts) which is not open to the public.

View from the church with the castle in the background.

                After our hike to the church, we headed to the Meson Quinones and the Cuevas del Murcielagos (Caves of the bats).  The caves themselves were actually free of bats, but were a wonderful atmospheric place to get a glass of wine.  Essentially the caves are the wine cellar of the restaurant.   They are carved out of the rock that that building sits on.  They are complete with giant clay pots that the wine was aged in before it was served.  For only one euro, you got a small pottery glass of wine (about 2 oz.), that you could keep, and the chance to explore the wine cellar.

The caves (wine cellar) at Meson Quinones

                After exploring the wine cellar, we headed back to the Plaza Mayor for lunch at one of the many village Mesons.  Mesons are restaurants that specialize in all varieties of roasted meats.  Those in Chinchon are especially famous for their roast lamb.  Although I love lamb, I decided instead to have a roast loin of Iberian pig.  This is a special semi-wild pig that is only native to Spain.  Its diet is made up almost entirely of acorns which gives the meat a wonderful nutty flavor.  Iberico (as it’s called in Spain) is also incredibly popular either cured or made into chorizo.  In addition to the Iberian pork loin, I had Sopa de Chinchon (Chinchon soup) that was made with pork, bread, onions, sweet paprika, and a whole poached egg.  For dessert I ordered leche frito or fried milk.  It was a dessert made with boiled milk, egg, flour, bread and sugar.  This is then made into slices of custard that are breaded and fried, not exactly a healthy choice, but certainly a delicious one.  To top it off, the server poured Chinchon Seco Especial over the top and caught the whole dessert on fire.  Just the look on the kid’s face made it worth the price of the dessert.     

The kitchen at La Virreina restaurant.

                After lunch we had one last surprise as there was a man standing at the center of the Plaza Mayor offering carriage rides through the city.  In all honesty I thought they would be too expense for the four of us, but Kelly and I were shocked as he only wanted three Euros per person for the ride.  So that’s how our day out ended, flying through the streets of an old Spanish town in a horse drawn carriage with only the sounds of the horses hoofs clopping through the ancient narrow streets.  It was an amazing day out and one that we will carry memories of long after we’ve returned from Spain.                   

Douglas and Benjamin in front of the carriage.

Culinary Adventures: Sobrino de Botin

Exterior of restaurante Sobrino de Botin

                One of the true joys of central Spain cooking is the asador.  Asadors are restaurants that feature a wood fired oven in which a variety of meats are roasted.  The two most popular of these are cordero (lamb) or cochinillo (roast suckling pig).  Although there are wealth of these restaurants located in the city and the surrounding countryside, only one can make the claim of being the oldest.  Madrid’s Sobrino de Botin is the oldest asador in Madrid, but it doesn’t stop there.  Not only is it the oldest restaurant in Spain, it is documented by the Guiness Book of World Records as the oldest restaurant in the world.

            Since 1725, the cooks at Sobrino de Botin have prepared their mouth-watering roast meat dishes.  The restaurant itself is located just down the hill from Madrid’s famous Plaza Mayor on Calle Cuchilleros, or the street of the culters.  Most likely the name comes from the cluster of workshops that were once located in this busy corner of the city. 

            Even before the present day establishment was opened in 1725, it is highly possible that another restaurant operated on the same spot.  As early as 1590, an inn and restaurant are believed to have been serving meals to the muleteers and traders who had recently completed their business at the nearby Plaza Mayor. 

            Much like those early traders, our family negotiated the wide square of Plaza Mayor and headed down the hill to Calle Cuchilleros and Sobrino de Botin.  Unlike those early traders, we weren’t celebrating a successful day of business.  Instead we made our way to Botin to celebrate my 35^th birthday.  After all, where better to celebrate a historian’s birthday than at the oldest restaurant in the world. 

            The entrance to Botin off of the street is nothing spectacular.  It has a wooden front with big picture windows showcasing the restaurants history and signature dish, Cochinillo.  After lingering a moment to read some of the history and excerpts from some of the world’s best known authors about the restaurant, we headed inside for lunch.    In regards to some of these famous authors, Botin had been no stranger to the literary world.  The restaurant is mentioned by several notable writers these include Spaniard Benito Perez Galdos, American James Michener, and of course lover of all things Spanish, Ernest Hemmingway. 

Interior of Botin

            Towards the end of his seminal first novel, The Sun Also Rises, the main characters of the novel lunch at Botin.  To quote Hemmingway, “We lunched upstairs at Botin’s. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta. Brett did not eat much. She never ate much. I ate a very big meal and drank three bottles of rioja alta.”

View from our table upstairs at Botin.

Like Hemmingway’s characters we ate upstairs, I dined on roast suckling pig, and drank rioja.  Unlike his characters though, I stopped at half a bottle.  Had I followed the passage exactly, I think they would have had to carry me out of the restaurant.

The restaurant itself is a delightful maze of rooms spread thoughout three floors and a basement.  Some claims are even made that the cellar may be part of the foundation of a much earlier building.  Today it is just another dining room.  After being seated upstairs we all placed our orders.  Douglas ordered his favorite croquetas, and heuvos revuelto de la casa.  The huevos revueltos are essentially scrambled eggs with different ingredients added to them.  In the case of the huevos revueltas de la casa, that meant scrambled eggs with potatoes, and crumbled blood sausage.  The dish was actually quite good and Douglas was very happy with his choice.  For her part, Kelly ordered ensalada mixta and pollo asado.  Ensalada mixta is a house salad that usually features iceberg lettuce, fresh tomatoes, onions, and canned tuna on top.  It is traditionally dressed with olive oil and vinegar.  The pollo asado is roast chicken prepared in the same wood fired ovens that are used to cook the lamb and suckling pig.

When it came time for me to order, I decided to go all out and have the Menu de la Casa.  At Sobrino de Botin, this means a first course of Sopa de Ajo, a second course of Cochinillo, a dessert, coffee, ½ a bottle of rioja wine, and bread.  With a feast like this, Benjamin was the luckiest of the bunch, getting to sample off of all of our plates.

Sopa de Ajo

The Menu didn’t disappoint from the first course.  Sopa de Ajo is a garlic soup topped with an egg.  The soup is similar to french onio soup with a tasty broth supplemented by chunks of fresh bread.  Unlike french onion soup, the dish is not topped by cheese, but instead by a poached egg.  It is also not nearly as salty as french onion.

Cochinillo

The second course of my meal was something that I had been looking forward to ever since I began to familiarize myself with food of central Spain.  Despite this, I held off on ever ordering this signature dish.  I guess my reason for this is that when I ordered Cochinillo for the first time, I wanted to make sure it was top shelf.  If you’ve read my earlier blogs, you’ll remember that I took the same approach when it came to Cocido Madrileno.  Cochinillo is roast suckling pig that is cooked in a wood-fired oven. When you first put your knife into it, the skin is thin and crispy.  Underneath is a thin layer of fat that keeps the meat moist.  Under that is some of the most delicious pork you could ever eat.  It truly lived up to expectations.

To complete the meal we all indulged in dessert.  I stuck to the traditional Arroz con Leche (rice pudding), Kelly had an apple tart, Doug white chocolate cheese cake and Ben enjoyed flan.  Overall, it was a wonderful traditional Spanish meal in a truly special location.  The only drawback was that the place can be a bit touristy.  Despite this, it is a must visit if you are spending time in Madrid.

Douglas and Benjamin enjoying lunch at Botin.

Amsterdam

The boys and I just before the Marathon.

Ah Amsterdam, the land of windmills, wooden shoes, canals, cannabis and prostitution.  Perhaps no city on the face of the planet has a bigger Jekyll and Hyde complex than Amsterdam.  On one hand she is that cute little Dutch girl, but when the lights go out she becomes something far different.  So what you ask was I doing in Amsterdam?  The answer is none of the above.  I was in Amsterdam to run the marathon.

            I stumbled upon the Amsterdam almost by accident.  I had originally planned to run a marathon in Porto, Portugal but the dates simply didn’t line up.  A trip to the U.S. to promote my new book, The Dover-Phila Football Rivalry: A tradition Shared Through its Greatest Games (shameless plug), meant that I would arrive back in Spain only two days before the race.  This left me looking for another option.  In the end I settled on Amsterdam because the date worked and frankly, I’ve always wanted to see what all the fuss is about.

            After arriving in Amsterdam on Friday morning, we made our way downtown to check out the race expo and pick up my race number, microchip etc…  The expo was held at a sports center that was adjacent to the 1928 Olympic stadium.  The stadium was constructed so that the city could host the 1928 summer games.  By modern standards the stadium is actually quite small.   While today it can accommodate up to 64, 000 people, when the Olympics were held here is could only hold half that.  Regardless of its seating capacity, there was definitely energy present in the old stadium.  The 2011 version of the marathon both began and concluded on the stadium’s track.

            After getting my race number and a quick stroll around the expo, we all hopped aboard the metro and headed back downtown.  Before I go any further though, I have to note that we did not have a map of the city.  Instead we chose where to leave the train by the proximity to Amsterdam Central Station, which is where all the bus and tram lines begin.  Getting off the train, we headed to lunch at a small pub.  Nothing special, but not bad either.  Then we decided to walk a little while.  Of course, as Murphy’s Law would have it, we nearly walked right into the heart of Amsterdam’s famed Red Light District.  It didn’t take long to realize it either as large picture windows began to appear in every store front.  Instead of displaying Futbol jerseys and kitschy windmill souvenirs, these particular windows featured scantily clad women dancing provocatively.  While personally I would’ve enjoyed “the sights”, it wasn’t exactly a family friendly environment.  It was also around this point that Kelly and I realized that we hadn’t seen any other tourists with children since before we got off of the metro.

            After righting our path and steering well south of the Red Light District, we continued our stroll through Amsterdam.  Much like Madrid, Amsterdam is a relatively (by European standards) young city.  Although it was founded in the 1200’s, it didn’t really come into its own until the 17^th century (1600’s).  In fact it wasn’t until the mid 17^th century that the city’s population grew to over 100,000.  By comparison, in the mid 17^th century London had a population of over 500,000.  The real change in Amsterdam is due in part to the construction of the canal system that began in 1613.  The canals form concentric circles around the city center and connect into the river Amstel, Amsterdam’s main natural waterway.  These canals helped Amsterdam to become the financial center of the world by the end of the 17th century.  Most notably, Amsterdam was home to the Dutch East India Company.

            Today the canals are more known for their tourist appeal.  They provide a fascinating way to see the city.  On Friday night, after taking in the architecture and layout of the city, we boarded one of the city’s many tourist boats for an evening cruise on the canals.  Our particular cruise was designed for families.  It provided the history and information on architecture for the adults while the food (pizza and Ben and Jerry’s ice cream) was chosen to entice the kids.  We thoroughly enjoyed the evening as the boats provide a wonderful way to see the city, especially at night.

The family on our pizza cruise.

            Our second day in Amsterdam was spent with a little shopping, a visit to the Westerkerk (West Church), a walk past Anne Frank’s House, and a tour of the Rijksmuseum.  The Westerkerk is the church that Anne Frank writes about in her famous Diary.  Westerkerk is a Protestant church that is recognizable for its soaring west tower capped by the Imperial Crown of Austria’s Maxilian I.  In addition to Anne Frank’s Diary, the Church is also well known as the final resting place of Dutch painter Rembrandt.  After walking through the church we headed next door to the Anne Frank House.  Because of the incredibly long lines, and the mature subject matter, we decided against taking the tour.  The house itself features the hidden annex that Otto Frank hid his family in for two years until their betrayal to the Nazis during WWII.

Amsterdam's Westerkerk

The Rijksmuseum

            Following the Anne Frank House, we took the trolley to the Rijksmuseum.  The museum is a national history and art museum founded in The Hague in 1800.  It was later moved to Amsterdam in 1808.  The current building that houses the museum’s collection was completed in 1885 and was under extensive renovation when we visited.  Despite this there were still over 400 artifacts and paintings on display.  What I enjoyed most about the collection was the focus on using these artifacts to share the history of Holland and the Netherlands.  In a museum the size of the Rijksmuseum, there are certainly hundreds of thousands of artifacts.  Imagine having to whittle that number down to 400 to tell your story.  This led to a very concise and focused exhibit.

            The first floor of the Rijksmuseum was focused on Amsterdam’s and Holland’s history from the beginning up to the present.  It explored the country’s growth due to commerce, the Dutch trade and colonies, and their position as a world naval power.  The second floor was devoted to the museum’s extensive art collection.  Of which they have quite a few original Rembrandt’s.  The most famous of these is titled The Night Watch.  The Night Watch was completed in 1642 and is regarded as a masterpiece for its feeling of action and movement and more importantly for its excellent use of light and shadow.  Rembrandt perfectly highlights the main characters in the painting through his use of light and shadow.  It is almost as if those who you are supposed to notice in the painting are actually being spotlighted.

Rembrandt's "The Night Watch"

            Our final day in Amsterdam was made up by the race from mid-morning to early afternoon and an impromptu trip to The Hague in the afternoon.  The race itself was a great first introduction for me into racing in Europe.  It was my first race outside of the U.S. and honestly I wasn’t sure quite what to expect.  In the end though, 26.2 miles is no different than 42 km. 

            The race began in the city’s Olympic stadium at 9:30 am local time.  We started on the track before leaving the stadium and heading out onto the streets of the city.  It’s important to note here that the race didn’t go into the older parts of the city.  Although we ran alongside of the outermost canal, we didn’t venture into the older parts of the city.  Despite this the urban part of the run featured some exceptional architecture, the Rijksmuseum, and two separate sections that travelled through Vondelpark (the city’s largest urban park).  Despite these well-known sites, my favorite part of the race was when we went south along the banks of the Amstel River. 

            Being a large urban marathon, I didn’t expect open fields and farms.  That was exactly what I got though as I ran through miles 9-14.  Through this stretch the route was a bike path with the river on one side and farmland on the other. The views were of open fields, quant houses, livestock, and historic windmills.  We were also treated to views of rowing teams getting in a workout of their own in the smooth waters of the river.  It was really a nice change of pace, and it broke of the monotony of a typical big city marathon. 

Inside Amsterdam's 1928 Olympic Stadium

            With the help of near perfect weather, 40 degrees at the start and low 50’s at the finish, and the flattest course I’ve ever run, I ended up with a personal best time of 3:07:47.  The best part was that I actually felt stronger as the race went on. It is always more fun to be passing people at the end of a race and not be the one getting passed.

            Following the race, the family boarded a train for The Hague.  The Hague is the center of Dutch government and one of three major cities (along with New York and Geneva) to host the United Nations.  The city is also a popular summertime destination as it is located on the North Sea.  After meeting up with a high school friend of Kelly’s, we travelled to the beach to walk on the boardwalk and get a bite to eat. 

            Kelly’s high school friend is originally from Brazil, but is married to a man from the Netherlands.  They have a three year-old daughter and the kids almost instantly hit it off despite the fact that the little girl spoke only Dutch and Portuguese. We all enjoyed the beach and Douglas was even brave enough to wade into the chilly surf.  Also while at the beach I had perhaps my oddest ever post-race meal.

            Before I get into what I actually ate, I need to explain the post-race meal.  Although the experts tend to recommend a certain amount of protein, etc… to aid recovery, I take a little different approach.  To me, post-race meals should involve something so deliciously terrible for me that I would never choose to eat it otherwise.  Some examples of great post-race meals are; half of a Chicago style deep dish pizza, Chili Cheese Fritos, and a triple Baconator from Wendy’s.  If it’s greasy and full of fat, it’s a perfect choice.  It also goes without saying that this incredibly unhealthy meal is usually washed down by several beers.

Dutch Herring Sandwich

            On this particular occasion instead of the usual I opted to go for a traditional Dutch treat.  I ate a raw herring sandwich that I purchased from a stand on the beach.  It is actually a Dutch tradition called soused herring.  To prepare it, the fish is cleaned and the fillets are packed into a barrel filled with a mild brine solution.  The raw fish are then allowed to ripen in this brine solution for five days before they are ready.  The soused herring is served on a bread roll, covered in diced onions.  Although it doesn’t sound that appetizing to the American pallet, it was actually quite good.  The flavor is salty and slightly fishy (in a good way), and enhanced by the onions.  The only challenging thing about this dish is the consistency which was a little mushy.

            Overall, we had a great weekend in Amsterdam.  Even if you aren’t into the vices the city has to offer, it’s still a fascinating place to visit with great architecture, history, arts, museums, and of course an incredibly fast marathon.